View Single Post
Old 05-07-2018, 09:33 PM   #3232 (permalink)
thingstodo
Master EcoModder
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Saskatoon, canada
Posts: 1,479

ChargE (not yet running) - '92 Mazda MX6 LX
90 day: 33.89 mpg (US)

Ford Prefect - '18 Ford F150 XLT XTR
Thanks: 746
Thanked 543 Times in 438 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by MPaulHolmes View Post
Holy cow I missed a lot! Fortunately, I am now unemployed, and can check here more often. haha.
Too bad! Their loss.

Quote:
For thingstodo:
You have to pretend that you are from the matrix... Remember how they see the random numbers and see all sorts of events happening? 200010220 20202020 "oh no! Neo is fighting the bad guys"

When you do run-pi-test2, what you want to see is convergence toward 0. It should start at around 512, and quickly fall to 0. It won't really fall to exactly zero. So, something like this when you type run-pi-test2:
512, 512, 460, 440, 430, ..., 100, 50, -50, 60, 0, -40, .....
OK. What happens if it does not go below 450 and then goes back up again? Do I need to set something and try again?

Quote:
The rate of convergence depends on the specific motor. For big motors it usually converges really fast (like in 10 or 20 iterations). For small ones maybe in 40 or 50 or something iterations? I've seen it as slow as 90 before.
With run-pi-test on the older firmware, the motor chirped for an hour and a half or so, then it gave up and told me that it was not converging.

Quote:
If it converges to zero, (but bounces around zero), you are good. If it goes too negative, and then comes back, then you need to reduce your Kp and Ki. It's a little too agressive and wild. Also, make sure Kp is around 60*Ki, whatever you are using for Ki.
Right now I'm using defaults, whatever they are. So if it does not converge ... which way do I go?

Quote:
Reversing polarity of the B+ and b- could be very bad. That's a dead short across 2 diodes inside the IGBTs. Now, those big diodes can handle 600 amp each, and you have 3, so that's 1800amp that the IGBTs could handle. I bet the 58v battery pack wasn't able to deliver that. Was there a fuse that could have blown so that the precharge can still do its thing, but the main contactor can't?
The battery pack did not blow it's 80 amp fuse. The power board was charged up to pack voltage, just backward. I didn't notice and did a run-pi-test ... and nothing happened.. at all.

Quote:
The software is very similar to what it was before. You sholdn'thave to use different numbers for your motor.
OK - so the motor sorta turned - last night, video when I get it edited - with the numbers I had from the siemens AC motor. But I'm at a lower voltage, and the motor is *MUCH* less powerful.

As for being unemployed, a couple of guys on the Polaris forum are drooling over the numbers on your controller. These guys are gear heads and always want more power, more speed...

I know that the ring cap is expensive, and I expect that lower voltage on the IGBTs would be less expensive ... maybe some components could be changed and it could be priced as an upgrade to the Polaris Ranger line of EVs. The SEVCON controller that is used now is MOSFET based and has issues with cooling. 650A max and it has issues going up long inclines even if they are not very steep. It also has some issues with specific frequencies (hesitates and kinda stutters) when loaded and going up hill.

The big pain would be that most of these things are lead acid so there is not a lot of room for the controller .. and there is a 40ish pin connector to interface to. All the signals you need are there .. I've mapped most of them out.

There is a high/medium/low switch on the dash for max speed, max range, and hauling respectively. 4wd 2wd turf mode is handled by the VCIM and involves solenoids on the differentials front and back. There is also a Forward/neutral/Reverse switch, an indicator above the manual steering for F, N, R, Brake, and a wrench problem light.

The throttle is a dual hall effect, one signal 2x the other signal. I have the voltages mapped. There is no signal from the brake - which is silly. There is a pressure switch which runs the brake lights and adding a pressure transducer would be straight forward, with 0 - 5V for braking to give regen.

Just me running off at the mouth! But seriously, I could use some help with this project!
__________________
In THEORY there is no difference between Theory and Practice
In PRACTICE there IS!
  Reply With Quote