Mechanics say that replacing the timing belt should take two hours if you know what you are doing, but five if it is your first time. Shops bill for 4.5. I found a couple of instructional videos that were almost an hour long, but one said to watch two other videos for specific parts. If experienced mechanics need an hour with power tools and editing, I have difficulty believing that many people can do it in two hours.
I woke up early and got started, but I did not get very far before I needed to put everything away and see my one client today. Then I napped for a couple of hours because I hardly slept last night.
For some reason, I have difficulty looking at a schematic from the FSM and recognizing the area and specific parts indicated. It was like the lamest treasure map. At one point I cleaned my hands, pulled up each of those videos on my phone, plus a few others, and realized that none of them removed the parts in question. I finally figured out where they were and did not understand why they needed to go. I spent much of the day on this and only accomplished another nine steps and I skipped some, but I also went back to previous ones that challenged me.
It says to remove the alternator and I did, but I do not know if it is necessary. It says to disconnect the fuel injectors, Intake Air Temperature, Idle Air Control, Manifold Absolute Pressure, Primary Heated Oxygen, Air-Fuel Ratio, Engine Coolant Temperature, radiator fan switch, coolant temperature gauge sending unit, VTEC solenoid valve, and VTEC oil pressure switch sensor\connectors.
I packed up when, not only was I unable to remove the crankshaft pulley, but I broke my 19mm socket, and possibly other stuff. I had this problem with my Forester, but the chain wrench made short work of it. My crankshaft pulley tool does not stay in as well as it did originally. One guy on YouTube used a 24" ratchet and a breaker bar. I just have a normal ratchet and a breaker bar. The breaker bar and a six-point socket did not provide much flexibility, but I absolutely do not want to strip that bolt.
About that...
When I stood and pushed my foot on the breaker bar I could not put enough force on it. When I laid and pushed on it I slid on the ground. I could not put much of a pipe down there. I broke the socket when I ran a huge cargo strap to the rear tow hook.
I think I broke the cargo strap, too.
I should be able to walk into AutoZone and get a free replacement. Do I break them until I finally pop the bolt? It seems like there are too many ways for that to go wrong. I figure that I will obtain the free replacement, but purchase impact sockets from Harbor Freights, a short length of pipe, an elbow joint, and a six-foot pipe.
Once I can get around the front of the car I should be able to get all kinds of leverage!
The good news: I have not lost anything, nor have I discovered any new problems, and as far as I know, I have not rounded anything significantly, either. The Accord is the same year my Forester was, but currently a couple of years older, with at least 60% more miles, but with the Subaru I kept finding more problems.
The accessory belts are cracking. The hoses are barely crunchy, but I think they are original. The thermostat is stuck open. I can only hope that replacing all of the gaskets and everything will improve the oil consumption.
Goodnight everybody!