I do not like the Honda FSM.

[Xist]

I think that it is good to watch someone else do a repair before you do, but what good is a video when you have your engine in pieces? Unless it is something simple like replacing my radiator I want the instructions printed out right in front of me.

[Xist]

Installation of the new belt:

[California98Civic]

Looking good. Keep at it.

[ME_Andy]

Watch this guy build a cardboard muffler

https://www.carthrottle.com/post/wat...board-muffler/

[Xist]

I finally started! I only got to step nineteen, though. The diagram does not clearly show where the coolant drain plug is in the engine block. It is a 19mm bolt above and to the left of the oil filter that you cannot see from below. Neither Nuts about Bolts nor Brian's Mobile removed that drain plug. Someone commented that when they finally removed it barely any radiator fluid came out. I have seen several comments that it strips easily. With the jack straight in it is in the way of the drain pan.

My phone was fully charged when I started, but I tried to take a couple of pictures, and my phone died. When I plugged it in it said it was at 30%. I just wanted to get as much work done before it got dark as possible, so I charged the phone and left it alone, but I will try to get more pictures.

Below are the first nineteen steps, without diagrams, next to my version:

[Xist]

Mechanics say that replacing the timing belt should take two hours if you know what you are doing, but five if it is your first time. Shops bill for 4.5. I found a couple of instructional videos that were almost an hour long, but one said to watch two other videos for specific parts. If experienced mechanics need an hour with power tools and editing, I have difficulty believing that many people can do it in two hours.

I woke up early and got started, but I did not get very far before I needed to put everything away and see my one client today. Then I napped for a couple of hours because I hardly slept last night.

For some reason, I have difficulty looking at a schematic from the FSM and recognizing the area and specific parts indicated. It was like the lamest treasure map. At one point I cleaned my hands, pulled up each of those videos on my phone, plus a few others, and realized that none of them removed the parts in question. I finally figured out where they were and did not understand why they needed to go. I spent much of the day on this and only accomplished another nine steps and I skipped some, but I also went back to previous ones that challenged me.

It says to remove the alternator and I did, but I do not know if it is necessary. It says to disconnect the fuel injectors, Intake Air Temperature, Idle Air Control, Manifold Absolute Pressure, Primary Heated Oxygen, Air-Fuel Ratio, Engine Coolant Temperature, radiator fan switch, coolant temperature gauge sending unit, VTEC solenoid valve, and VTEC oil pressure switch sensor\connectors.

I packed up when, not only was I unable to remove the crankshaft pulley, but I broke my 19mm socket, and possibly other stuff. I had this problem with my Forester, but the chain wrench made short work of it. My crankshaft pulley tool does not stay in as well as it did originally. One guy on YouTube used a 24" ratchet and a breaker bar. I just have a normal ratchet and a breaker bar. The breaker bar and a six-point socket did not provide much flexibility, but I absolutely do not want to strip that bolt.

About that...

When I stood and pushed my foot on the breaker bar I could not put enough force on it. When I laid and pushed on it I slid on the ground. I could not put much of a pipe down there. I broke the socket when I ran a huge cargo strap to the rear tow hook.

I think I broke the cargo strap, too.

I should be able to walk into AutoZone and get a free replacement. Do I break them until I finally pop the bolt? It seems like there are too many ways for that to go wrong. I figure that I will obtain the free replacement, but purchase impact sockets from Harbor Freights, a short length of pipe, an elbow joint, and a six-foot pipe.

Once I can get around the front of the car I should be able to get all kinds of leverage!



The good news: I have not lost anything, nor have I discovered any new problems, and as far as I know, I have not rounded anything significantly, either. The Accord is the same year my Forester was, but currently a couple of years older, with at least 60% more miles, but with the Subaru I kept finding more problems.

The accessory belts are cracking. The hoses are barely crunchy, but I think they are original. The thermostat is stuck open. I can only hope that replacing all of the gaskets and everything will improve the oil consumption.

Goodnight everybody!

[California98Civic]

All you are doing is the timing belt and you are removing the injectors?! No, that can't be right. I know you have the Accord and I have the Civic, but they are VERY similar. Something is wrong in your procedure.

On the crank pulley... that stuck me too, my first time. Power tools were useless. I got the Ft lbs I needed by buying a 12' steel pipe from a Big Box, buying a 1/2" drive breaker bar, and standing my 150lbs body on the end of the pipe threaded onto the breaker bar, on the socket, on the bolt. I gently bounced myself until after a minute it popped. Too much force, too quickly seemed like a bad idea. 12 feet times 150 lbs, what is that, 1800 ft lbs of torque?

[Xist]

As I mentioned, it merely says:



but when I look up how to do that it says:



I mentioned purchasing a short pipe, a long pipe, and an elbow, and that the front of the car is in the way. The first time that I had a stuck fastener I looked into my garage for something I could use for leverage and saw the yellow four-foot handle for my Napa floor jack.

I will just dig a hole so I can use it. Digging is free!

[California98Civic]

Buy the 12' pipe, be VERY nice to it, leaving stickers on and such, and then return it. Some people will hate me saying that but if u do no harm to it, and they are willing to take it back, and u return it right away... I am fine with the ethics. Lowes is a giant corporation and u need help and will do no harm. My two cents.

[Xist]

The wrenches were able to move in too many axes:

The Harbor Freight impact socket held. The crankshaft removal tool did not. The top one is the $69 Napa rental:


According to the instructions, I need to remove a bolt, slide a pulley, and remove the belts, but the videos show far more steps.

I drove my Civic five miles, she drove rougher and rougher, gave me a check engine light for air-fuel sensor 1, and then she started overheating.

I drove Mom's car to my other client and then to the car wash. The ignition locked. I could not turn the key or shift.

I chipped a tooth on perogies.

How?!