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cajunfj40 · 08-07-2018, 03:31 PM

Hello Fox Mulder,

I concur with redpoint5 on the HF trailer. I think I have the same one. Cheap, durable, has papers so it is easy to register, stores easy when folded, crappy light wiring (lights themselves seem to work fine, it's the insulation on the wires - horrible!), lots and lots and lots of bolts for assembly. I must have gotten lucky - the bearings were already fully packed when I got it, and I've had no hot hubs at all so far, even when loaded to the point my Chevy Prizm bottomed out the rear suspension. I'll add: the casters for moving it around when folded are only good for *super flat concrete with no hills, no cracks, no holes, no dips, no steps, etc.* Catch anything when pushing it and the balls in the caster pivot bearings spit out as the central mounting bolt bends. I've replaced them twice and the current ones are busted. There's just not enough beef in single-bolt casters to withstand any side loads. I have threaded rod and 4-hole casters and whatnot for eventually figuring out how to hook it up better, but I don't use it that often and round tuits are in short supply.

Also, don't add one of those bolt-to-the-side with U-bolts fold-down trailer stand wheels. I had to put a block of wood inside the C-section tongue to keep the bolts from collapsing the channel, and the tongue bends with any weight in the trailer due to the offset support. Get the triangle base style that goes behind the hitch. You'll need to drill and/or weld to get it in, but it will work better.

I used something like 1/2" or 5/8" or 3/4" plywood for the deck on mine, vs the thinner recommendation. Mistake. Had to countersink the carriage bolt heads because bolt placement is symmetrical on the two halves and the trailer wouldn't fold in half all the way because the heads hit each other.

Last issue: the trailer uses 4 carriage bolts to fix the folding rear part of the platform down. With the amount of misalignment/bend/warp in my assembled trailer, it is a royal pain to get those bolts in and out - and I can only get 3 in anyway.

For the lights, I have been eyeing HF's magnet-mount vehicle towing light set. Since the back of the trailer is metal, just stick 'em on when you need to use it, and stow them when you don't. That way they don't sit out in the weather and have the wiring insulation crack.

The tongue is 2" square, takes a standard coupler, so if you wanted to go for a 2" coupler you could replace it. It could really use sleeves inside, though, as it will compress when tightening the bolts!

You mentioned a welding outfit. If it can do 3/16" steel and under, it can weld the HF trailer metal. You'd be able to box the A-frame tongue, add that triangle-base trailer jack, modify the mounts for the casters to use some bigger 4-bolt units for durability, and weld the trailer assembly together square rather than relying on bolts to align it. Your choice whether to work with the bigger trailer and cut it down, or the smaller trailer and upsize the deck a bit.

A used boat or snowmobile trailer might be a good start if you want a narrower axle, though. As you said, a bit more work since you would have to create or cut down a deck. In any case you'll have to either design and build the enclosed portion or find a couple of weatherproof crates/boxes to strap down.

Hmm. This rooftop box might work for the enclosure. Or something similar found used/cheap/free on the local CL or similar. Is 18 cubic feet enough? Weight rating is irrelevant when you can support the entire bottom with a wood deck. No designing needed other than figuring out how to bolt it down securely.

If you want to get fancy/crafty, look at adapting whatever you end up with to have the same bolt pattern as your Subaru. Then you can use the same spare for both - or have the trailer wheels available as spares (just make sure they are of a compatible diameter, since AWD). I recall having a U-Haul trailer get a flat in the middle of a long move, and no repair facilities open. I was facing a several hour or overnight wait for services. I looked at the wheel, looked at my truck, thought "Huh, that looks like the same bolt pattern." It was, I put my spare on the trailer (just cleared the fender!) and towed the lopsided rig the rest of the way like that. When I turned it in, as I was taking my spare back off, the guy commented he'd never seen anyone put their own spare on a trailer before.

08-07-2018, 03:31 PM	#14 (permalink)
cajunfj40 Lurking Eco-wall-o-texter Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: MPLS, MN area Posts: 128 Thanks: 0 Thanked 65 Times in 45 Posts	Hello Fox Mulder, I concur with redpoint5 on the HF trailer. I think I have the same one. Cheap, durable, has papers so it is easy to register, stores easy when folded, crappy light wiring (lights themselves seem to work fine, it's the insulation on the wires - horrible!), lots and lots and lots of bolts for assembly. I must have gotten lucky - the bearings were already fully packed when I got it, and I've had no hot hubs at all so far, even when loaded to the point my Chevy Prizm bottomed out the rear suspension. I'll add: the casters for moving it around when folded are only good for super flat concrete with no hills, no cracks, no holes, no dips, no steps, etc. Catch anything when pushing it and the balls in the caster pivot bearings spit out as the central mounting bolt bends. I've replaced them twice and the current ones are busted. There's just not enough beef in single-bolt casters to withstand any side loads. I have threaded rod and 4-hole casters and whatnot for eventually figuring out how to hook it up better, but I don't use it that often and round tuits are in short supply. Also, don't add one of those bolt-to-the-side with U-bolts fold-down trailer stand wheels. I had to put a block of wood inside the C-section tongue to keep the bolts from collapsing the channel, and the tongue bends with any weight in the trailer due to the offset support. Get the triangle base style that goes behind the hitch. You'll need to drill and/or weld to get it in, but it will work better. I used something like 1/2" or 5/8" or 3/4" plywood for the deck on mine, vs the thinner recommendation. Mistake. Had to countersink the carriage bolt heads because bolt placement is symmetrical on the two halves and the trailer wouldn't fold in half all the way because the heads hit each other. Last issue: the trailer uses 4 carriage bolts to fix the folding rear part of the platform down. With the amount of misalignment/bend/warp in my assembled trailer, it is a royal pain to get those bolts in and out - and I can only get 3 in anyway. For the lights, I have been eyeing HF's magnet-mount vehicle towing light set. Since the back of the trailer is metal, just stick 'em on when you need to use it, and stow them when you don't. That way they don't sit out in the weather and have the wiring insulation crack. The tongue is 2" square, takes a standard coupler, so if you wanted to go for a 2" coupler you could replace it. It could really use sleeves inside, though, as it will compress when tightening the bolts! You mentioned a welding outfit. If it can do 3/16" steel and under, it can weld the HF trailer metal. You'd be able to box the A-frame tongue, add that triangle-base trailer jack, modify the mounts for the casters to use some bigger 4-bolt units for durability, and weld the trailer assembly together square rather than relying on bolts to align it. Your choice whether to work with the bigger trailer and cut it down, or the smaller trailer and upsize the deck a bit. A used boat or snowmobile trailer might be a good start if you want a narrower axle, though. As you said, a bit more work since you would have to create or cut down a deck. In any case you'll have to either design and build the enclosed portion or find a couple of weatherproof crates/boxes to strap down. Hmm. This rooftop box might work for the enclosure. Or something similar found used/cheap/free on the local CL or similar. Is 18 cubic feet enough? Weight rating is irrelevant when you can support the entire bottom with a wood deck. No designing needed other than figuring out how to bolt it down securely. If you want to get fancy/crafty, look at adapting whatever you end up with to have the same bolt pattern as your Subaru. Then you can use the same spare for both - or have the trailer wheels available as spares (just make sure they are of a compatible diameter, since AWD). I recall having a U-Haul trailer get a flat in the middle of a long move, and no repair facilities open. I was facing a several hour or overnight wait for services. I looked at the wheel, looked at my truck, thought "Huh, that looks like the same bolt pattern." It was, I put my spare on the trailer (just cleared the fender!) and towed the lopsided rig the rest of the way like that. When I turned it in, as I was taking my spare back off, the guy commented he'd never seen anyone put their own spare on a trailer before.