Tiny Cargo trailer ideas

[COcyclist]

Perhaps copy the design of this U-Haul trailer but scale it down for your needs. https://www.uhaul.com/Trailers/4x8-C...ler-Rental/UV/
It is probably the best combination of ease of construction, aerodynamics and cargo capacity. The corner radius helps in crosswinds and overall aerodynamics.

[Fox Mulder]

Hi redpoint5, I don’t think we can quite do it with a hitch carrier. I looked at the Thule, Stowaway and other boxes, and I don’t think they are quite big enough. We camp for a couple weeks at a time, and the Forester doesn’t have a ton of space, and honestly, we like to put the dog in the far back. I did consider a box like that though.

Angel and the Wolf- thanks for the link! I’m hoping to spend way less than $3000! The only trailers I’ve found that seem to be close to what I’m looking for are that much, and I haven’t had luck finding a used one. I will take a look at the boat trailer you linked. I’ve been thinking a boat, PWC, or a single place snowmobile trailer could be a great platform. I even thought about upgrading my welding unit to include aluminum, but its sounds like welding aluminum maybe should be left to the pros. I’m fair with steel, but I have zero experience with aluminum.

For the template, ideally, I’d also keep the width inside the template as well, right? I know in my reading of other threads there was talk about placement, but it seemed like the centerline of the vehicle ended up being the correct placement? For the apex, would I like it up with the side template so the sides and top ended in the same place, or would I like it up with the widest part of the body?

[redpoint5]

Still don't know why there are mixed reviews on the HF trailer. I haven't heard a single story of one coming apart or losing a wheel. It's all a bunch of paranoid people. The nuts are nylon locking, and you could put Locktite on there too if you're very paranoid. Of course, the wheel bearings need to be repacked with good grease, but that's no big deal.

It will take you an eternity to assemble; I probably put 8 hours just into bolting it together and repacking the bearings, but I bought the 4'x8'. They make a 4'x4' that might be large enough for you, especially if you put a box on the tongue.

You can pick up the 4'x8' for about $200 on sale, and the folding one takes up so little space in the garage.

[cajunfj40]

Hello Fox Mulder,

I concur with redpoint5 on the HF trailer. I think I have the same one. Cheap, durable, has papers so it is easy to register, stores easy when folded, crappy light wiring (lights themselves seem to work fine, it's the insulation on the wires - horrible!), lots and lots and lots of bolts for assembly. I must have gotten lucky - the bearings were already fully packed when I got it, and I've had no hot hubs at all so far, even when loaded to the point my Chevy Prizm bottomed out the rear suspension. I'll add: the casters for moving it around when folded are only good for *super flat concrete with no hills, no cracks, no holes, no dips, no steps, etc.* Catch anything when pushing it and the balls in the caster pivot bearings spit out as the central mounting bolt bends. I've replaced them twice and the current ones are busted. There's just not enough beef in single-bolt casters to withstand any side loads. I have threaded rod and 4-hole casters and whatnot for eventually figuring out how to hook it up better, but I don't use it that often and round tuits are in short supply.

Also, don't add one of those bolt-to-the-side with U-bolts fold-down trailer stand wheels. I had to put a block of wood inside the C-section tongue to keep the bolts from collapsing the channel, and the tongue bends with any weight in the trailer due to the offset support. Get the triangle base style that goes behind the hitch. You'll need to drill and/or weld to get it in, but it will work better.

I used something like 1/2" or 5/8" or 3/4" plywood for the deck on mine, vs the thinner recommendation. Mistake. Had to countersink the carriage bolt heads because bolt placement is symmetrical on the two halves and the trailer wouldn't fold in half all the way because the heads hit each other.

Last issue: the trailer uses 4 carriage bolts to fix the folding rear part of the platform down. With the amount of misalignment/bend/warp in my assembled trailer, it is a royal pain to get those bolts in and out - and I can only get 3 in anyway.

For the lights, I have been eyeing HF's magnet-mount vehicle towing light set. Since the back of the trailer is metal, just stick 'em on when you need to use it, and stow them when you don't. That way they don't sit out in the weather and have the wiring insulation crack.

The tongue is 2" square, takes a standard coupler, so if you wanted to go for a 2" coupler you could replace it. It could really use sleeves inside, though, as it will compress when tightening the bolts!

You mentioned a welding outfit. If it can do 3/16" steel and under, it can weld the HF trailer metal. You'd be able to box the A-frame tongue, add that triangle-base trailer jack, modify the mounts for the casters to use some bigger 4-bolt units for durability, and weld the trailer assembly together square rather than relying on bolts to align it. Your choice whether to work with the bigger trailer and cut it down, or the smaller trailer and upsize the deck a bit.

A used boat or snowmobile trailer might be a good start if you want a narrower axle, though. As you said, a bit more work since you would have to create or cut down a deck. In any case you'll have to either design and build the enclosed portion or find a couple of weatherproof crates/boxes to strap down.

Hmm. This rooftop box might work for the enclosure. Or something similar found used/cheap/free on the local CL or similar. Is 18 cubic feet enough? Weight rating is irrelevant when you can support the entire bottom with a wood deck. No designing needed other than figuring out how to bolt it down securely.

If you want to get fancy/crafty, look at adapting whatever you end up with to have the same bolt pattern as your Subaru. Then you can use the same spare for both - or have the trailer wheels available as spares (just make sure they are of a compatible diameter, since AWD). I recall having a U-Haul trailer get a flat in the middle of a long move, and no repair facilities open. I was facing a several hour or overnight wait for services. I looked at the wheel, looked at my truck, thought "Huh, that looks like the same bolt pattern." It was, I put my spare on the trailer (just cleared the fender!) and towed the lopsided rig the rest of the way like that. When I turned it in, as I was taking my spare back off, the guy commented he'd never seen anyone put their own spare on a trailer before.

[Angel And The Wolf]

Originally Posted by Fox Mulder

I can minimize the tongue as much as is practical, and I’m not sure what that length really is. Most people are saying the tongue should be a min of half the cars width.

Depends on what angle you need the trailer to bend. A 90degree bend needs half the width of your vehical. Tighter needs more. Less bend needs less tongue length.

Originally Posted by Fox Mulder

I was going to attempt to look at it with the template, but I wasn’t totally sure on placement relative to the tow vehicle and trailer relationship. I was initially thinking a box with the tires inside the body, so essentially skirted, and maybe with a roof that slopes to match the template and a Kamm back on the tail.

Better aero would template the sides as well.

[Angel And The Wolf]

Originally Posted by redpoint5

Still don't know why there are mixed reviews on the HF trailer. I haven't heard a single story of one coming apart or losing a wheel.

I burned out the bearing on one wheel, but my box was 2x4 and 3/4" plywood.

Harbor Freight rates their trailers at 45 MPH, but that may be because they are intended as utility trailers, and not as highway trailers.

[oil pan 4]

If a wheel comes off a trailer its because the idiot putting the bearing hub together didn't have a clue. All light and medium duty trailer axles spindles go together the exact same way, with a one tooth washer and cotter pin through the castel nut and spindle.
If you have more than a 4th grade education I don't really see how someone could screw it up.

The grease in the HF trailer bearings isn't real extreme pressure grease. It's more like rust proof goop.
Do your self a favor and clean the bearings and pack them with some -40F to +500F brake hub bearing grease.

Don't use the cheap 8 inch wheels. The quality of these Chinese tires is very hit or miss. Or carry a tested spare tire, where you put the new tire on and take one of the old tires off and carry it with you and occasionally switch them out.
I have had one of these tires after 150 miles only at 50% load.

I use a load range E wheel in 145/80r12 steel belted radial. No more bias ply junk for me.
I can't drive 45mph. I built my trailer to pull 2,500lb at 75mph. Oh and it has a brake axle.
So let me know if you want to build a real trailer.

[Angel And The Wolf]

Originally Posted by COcyclist

Perhaps copy the design of this U-Haul trailer but scale it down for your needs. https://www.uhaul.com/Trailers/4x8-C...ler-Rental/UV/

Or try to find one of these for sale: https://www.uhaul.com/Trailers/Sport-Trailer-Rental/ST/

[cajunfj40]

Found a good thread on the HF trailer and mods for same: How to enhance a Harbor Freight frame

It's meant for turning them into camper bases, but the general methods are useful. I like the one with mud tires - looks like spares for the tow vehicle!

It even has links to bearing size info, replacing the hubs with US-spec hubs, etc. Apparently 5-lug 1" axle trailer hubs fit Jeep Wrangler wheels.

[Fox Mulder]

Man, if I could find one of those U Haul trailers, I would totally get it! Those are really cool, I've read that they are pretty much unobtainable. While I was looking for one, I came across the Road Warrior sports trailer, I attached a pic. It looks like the company went out of business, or anyway their domain is for sale now. It's a pretty sweet looking unit as well.

I think I'm looking to have about 45 cubic feet of space inside, however that works out the best, 3x5 by 3 tall, or maybe a little different combo if I based it off the smaller HF trailer. I would love to be able to use the same spare as the Forester, but I might have to figure out a different method to skirt the tires rather than just putting the box sides past them. I feel like a tall tire might be hard to get out that way.

Thanks for all the tips and info on the HF trailers! If I go that route, and I might for cost and easy availability, I will make use of all of them! And oil pan 4, I definitely want to build a real trailer! Something sturdy, but light and aerodynamic, that also looks good. It might also be cool if the box came off so I could use it as a small flatbed, and maybe have a removable or folding tongue so that I could stand it up in my garage. Probably a Holy Grail of sorts, but I hope to get close.

I built my other trailer, it's 5x10, made of 1/4 inch steel, 2x4 box for the frame, angle for the bed supports, and a 2x2 tongue that goes all the way to the end of the trailer. It has built-in storage for ramps, and a treated 2x6 deck. It's really sturdy, pulls great and has brakes, but it's heavy and wide enough behind the Subaru that it destroys the mileage. Looking back, I should have gone with 3/16, but the 1/4 was easily available.