I just got home, gimme a second to open my beer.
.............................................pshtt ..............................
Ah thats better.
Now let me ask you;
Did the car have any oil related issues before dis-assembly? (burning or leaking or vomiting)
Who made the head gasket kit? (Victor or Fel-Pro or Bob)
The seals are supposed to have a spring around the top, it keeps the seal tight to the stem of the valve to prevent oil bypassing the seal.
They should look as if they are made mostly of rubber around a small stiff metal tube. Sometimes they have "flash" left over from the forming process.
You already have all the tools.
You have to remove the valve springs. (you did that once, and it appears you did a fine job)
Then pull the old seal off its seat. (that is the top of the hole the valve comes through)
Yes there is a tool designed for that purpose, but it is not truly necessary.
Any good pair of needle nose pliers will do the trick.
Reach down the lifter well and grab the base of the seal and twist.
And POP it should come off. If it gives you any lip, give it right back. Twist a little more and pull a little harder. ( oops that sounds like a bad internet joke) But generally speaking they are fairly easy to manipulate.
Then you push the new seal down over the seat. You may need a socket, that fits around the spring and is about the same diameter as the seal, to push it all the way to the bottom.
Its just that easy.
You should be ready to install the head back to the engine.
Your kit should have the gaskets for the rear of the head, and a new seal for the camshaft.
You may want to get a good look at the water passages and see if there is any rust inside. If there is any it will form mainly on the core plugs. (those little round discs at the ends of the head, also referred to as freeze plugs)
If they are rusty, now is the time to change them.
I think you can handle it.
(i think i can, i think i can, i think i can)
Schultz