Metro - carbon on the piston head? - Page 4 - Fuel Economy, Hypermiling, EcoModding News and Forum

an0nymous · 08-31-2008, 08:13 AM

gotta wait for pep boys to open back up to get my clamp, but in the meantime...

an0nymous · 08-31-2008, 11:26 AM

looks like it works!

Will · 08-31-2008, 11:35 AM

Here is a strange notion. I thought that the burnt valve was the only problem I had with mine, but my dad advised something strange. Pour gasoline into the cylinders on top of the pistons. I rotated the engine to make sure nothing was top of stroke. I noticed that when I poured it in the gas in numbers one and three stayed there, while the gas in number two ran out quickly. He said this indicated bad rings or piston. Sure enough the second piston, when I removed it, was cracked from the bottom of the skirt to the top of the "dome". I do not know what would have happened if I had subjected it to full compression.

We used gas because it is so thin that it will run better than water, and after you soak it up with a paper towel the rest will evap quickly.

It's a strange notion, but a lot of piece of mind.

WARNING: Even if no gas appears to run through the engine always drain and change oild before starting engine the first time. you do not want gas to stay in there.

Will · 08-31-2008, 11:38 AM

Also, since you already have it apart I would replace all the intake and exhaust valves. They are cheaper than the cost of another head gasket to do this all over...

Excellent job so far, by the way. It's always great to see someone "takin it to the Metro"

an0nymous · 08-31-2008, 11:47 AM

So time to lap the exhaust valves! Trying to decide whether or not to
a) pull the intake valves and clean them and lap the seat
b) what else should I do when I am in here? Need to replace guides or something? Anyone got any advice?

....i really have no idea what to do with these little guys (valve stem seals)?
... anyone?....

Alright - I am ignoring the valve seals.. they look different from the stock ones and there is no play in the valve. It's back together... Victory!
Schultz- good call on just pressing down on it by hand instead of using the compressor...definitely the easier approach.

Now I await the cam...

metroschultz · 08-31-2008, 05:41 PM

I know you just got it back together
..............BUT.............
I would recommend you replace the seals while you are there.

Just a thought
S.

an0nymous · 08-31-2008, 05:52 PM

dangit, man.
Alright, let's talk about this thing. How do I replace the seal? It requires some kind of special tool, right?
Any good walkthroughs out there?
The seals that shipped with my gasket kit look... cheap(?) I mean I don't know much about valve seals but they seem poorly machined and they have this wee little flimsy spring wrapped around the top.
I'ld post a picture but the camera died.
I'll go back in and replace 'em if that's the call, but what do I need to get together first? I tried flexing the valves and there was no play.

I've pretty much packed up for the day. It'll be next weekend before I can get to them ... should have a camshaft by that point as well.

Hey what else should I be doing? anything else like the seals that I'm not seeing? I figured I was basically done..

Edit: ok, looking at the service manual it says that I need a "J 37968" and a hammer, assuming that a "valve guide bushing" (book) and a "valve stem seal" (bag that came with engine gasket kit) are the same things. Is this J 37968 a universal tool or something suzuki specific?

metroschultz · 08-31-2008, 06:58 PM

I just got home, gimme a second to open my beer.
.............................................pshtt ..............................
Ah thats better.
Now let me ask you;
Did the car have any oil related issues before dis-assembly? (burning or leaking or vomiting)
Who made the head gasket kit? (Victor or Fel-Pro or Bob)
The seals are supposed to have a spring around the top, it keeps the seal tight to the stem of the valve to prevent oil bypassing the seal.
They should look as if they are made mostly of rubber around a small stiff metal tube. Sometimes they have "flash" left over from the forming process.
You already have all the tools.
You have to remove the valve springs. (you did that once, and it appears you did a fine job)
Then pull the old seal off its seat. (that is the top of the hole the valve comes through)
Yes there is a tool designed for that purpose, but it is not truly necessary.
Any good pair of needle nose pliers will do the trick.
Reach down the lifter well and grab the base of the seal and twist.
And POP it should come off. If it gives you any lip, give it right back. Twist a little more and pull a little harder. ( oops that sounds like a bad internet joke) But generally speaking they are fairly easy to manipulate.
Then you push the new seal down over the seat. You may need a socket, that fits around the spring and is about the same diameter as the seal, to push it all the way to the bottom.
Its just that easy.

You should be ready to install the head back to the engine.
Your kit should have the gaskets for the rear of the head, and a new seal for the camshaft.
You may want to get a good look at the water passages and see if there is any rust inside. If there is any it will form mainly on the core plugs. (those little round discs at the ends of the head, also referred to as freeze plugs)
If they are rusty, now is the time to change them.

I think you can handle it.
(i think i can, i think i can, i think i can)
Schultz