Quote:
Originally Posted by mpg_numbers_guy
I was looking at doing that, and just clamping or retrofitting the 3" aluminum ducting that I have, but there's a drain-off or something connected to the OEM intake tubing that I wouldn't have connected if I did that; would that be an issue?
Mine was pointed at the passenger side of the cat. Maybe it's just my missing belly pan that's keeping it from warming up. What kind of intake temperatures are you experiencing with it in winter weather?
Nice going in the Fit. They're definitely good cars. Was one of my considerations when I was shopping for my Civic, but all the ones within a reasonable driving distance were too expensive.
|
That drain off is (if I remember correctly) a resonator - the flexible rubber tube that runs down under the headlight goes to a plastic box which has no other openings. Its function is suspected to be either to smooth out intake air pulses and level out torque (maybe subtracting some at 2000rpm and adding some at 1600rpm), or possibly to reduce intake noise. It's safe to delete, I haven't been able to tell a difference with or without it.
I'll get back to you with a picture of it. Hoping to get at least 100F when the car is warmed up, but I might not see much improvement at all with my short commute. That's what's primarily killing my economy compared to previous years - the car is hardly warmed up by the time I pull in to work.
And yeah, the Fit was expensive. $4,000 and it has 200,000 miles. They're outrageously reliable too though, and don't seem to have as many "quirks" as the Insight, which I think makes it a good car for her.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mpg_numbers_guy
Can't you use the arduino to change the MPH cutoff for Autostop to something like -1 MPH, so Autostop never occurs? If I remember correctly you said it was possible to change the "SOC" to where you could get Autostop whenever you put it into neutral, maybe something using that?
Also, where is the ambient temperature sensor located on the Insight? I want to move mine so Autostop isn't disabled under 32F..
|
SOC = state of charge
So you can't actually change the computer's programming, it just spoofs signals, and in this case the most important one is the charge level of the battery. The standard Arduino bypass sends the ECU a "ready" signal from the IMA, but also tells the ECU that the IMA battery is completely empty. The ECU therefore doesn't request any assist and thinks the IMA system is taking care of charging the battery back up, so it never finds out it isn't present.
One nasty issue with getting unwanted auto-stop when the IMA isn't actually present, is that the 12v starter is completely disabled until you key off and back on. Ask me how I found out. So, if you get it in the middle of an intersection and it kills the engine, you have a good 5-6 seconds minimum before you can restart the car. I could see it being useful with Natalya's forced auto-stop at high speeds, but it's absolutely not a good thing to get below highway speeds without the IMA in place.
As for the ambient temperature sensor, you can see it if you peer down into that gap between the radiator/A/C condenser and the front bumper cover. It's a small grey cylinder with a green and red wire (I think?) going to it, attached to the inside of the front bumper cover. The sensor is a variable resistor that changes values based on temperature and most who want to continue getting auto-stop below freezing will replace the sensor with a fixed resistor. So, you just need to find a resistance value that equates to a temperature above freezing. I want to say 3.3k or lower will get you auto-stop - that's something like 50F? HOWEVER the climate control also uses this value to calculate how to mix the air, so you'll get some funky results when it's super cold, like nothing but cold air from your vents until you spin it to 90.