Quote:
Originally Posted by Ecky
The transmission, no, but it's going to put more wear on your clutch. I typically don't stress clutch longevity to new manual drivers, but closer gear spacing and a very short first gear will contribute to long clutch life. It's basically a set of brake pads between engine and transmission, and (oversimplified) the greater the difference in speed between the two when you let the clutch out, the more material you're going to take off the clutch.
Mine is still original at ~245k and seems fine. I know some vehicles need a clutch before 100k. It won't last forever even if you baby it, but just something to keep in mind.
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What kind of things will wear out a clutch faster? I feel I might be doing some of them, but I'm not exactly sure what.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ecky
I understand it's somewhat load dependent but yes, ballpark 2800rpm. I'd give that a shot.
FE hit, probably more than zero. How much I can't say, but I find shifting sooner helps FE.
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Did it and got 66.5 MPG for pizza deliveries tonight:
1>2: 12 MPH
2>3: 28 MPH
3>4: 43 MPH
4>5: 55-59 MPH.
Most shifts between 2300 and 2700 RPMs.
From other test driving it seems that the brake reduction clips are worth 2-ish MPG. At speeds below 40 MPH I can tell a definite improvement in fuel economy, while at speeds above 45 MPH I can't tell at all. Guessing they work best in scenarios where rolling resistance is the key fuel consumption issue. Coasting seemed slightly better. So if we say 64.5 MPG (minus the rough 2 MPG from brake clips), that's within 0.2 MPG of my average fuel economy while delivering, so the shifting didn't seem to affect fuel economy much. Seems like my peak fuel economy range shifted a bit. Previously the best MPG was 35-50 MPH with 45-50 MPH being the highest, now it seems that it's still 35-50 MPH for peak FE, but 38-44 MPH for peak FE, with the brake reduction clips. Not that the higher speed MPG suffered, but that the lower speed MPG got better.
One of my caliper pins was also having trouble sliding, so we greased that as well; part of the "2-ish mpg" could be that.
The "2-ish mpg" is just butt dyno....no ABA testing. It was hard enough getting the clips installed once!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ecky
Honestly I found that to be the biggest learning curve with the car. It's very possible to finely control battery usage with just the gas pedal but you can probably expect to still be learning that months or years down the line. Even with a fully functional IMA, you can drive in stop and go traffic and never get a bar of assist or regen (or more of one and less of the other) if you're really precise with the gas pedal.
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How? The only way I can accelerate without assist is downhill or feathering it lightly and literally crawling along. Preventing regen is easy by coasting in neutral or EOCing.