Quote:
Originally Posted by 19bonestock88
For how quick the car is, 43mpg is damn good... you’ll easily knock down 50mpg tanks once the tune is dialed in better and you have 6th gear...
|
Underbody panels are all off right now, and I found (and corrected) that the radiator fan was running full blast the entire way.
Changes to tuning I've made so far this morning:
-Adjusted idle valve duty cycle down a bit, I overshot with my changes. Engine stays running.
-Set idle down to 700rpm from 900rpm. Might go lower.
-Moved idle lambda from 14.6:1 to 14.7:1.
-Changed radiator fan setpoint from 180F (point where the thermostat just starts to open) to 200F (5 degrees after thermostat is fully open).
-Disabled knock sensor temporarily. Ordered new knock sensor (K-Tuned). I believe it's damaged, but this tune uses very conservative ignition timing so should be safe to drive.
-Dialed max cam advance back in software from 50 degrees to 40 degrees, to represent the mechanical stop I put in.
-Lowered rev limiter from 7600 to 7100rpm, since I can't see those on my tach right now.
-Changed system from "WOT compensation at fixed lambda (12.5:1)" to "Fuel compensation from target lambda tables" and made a gradient that does not let it get richer than 13.5:1.
-Added a lot of cam advance in low throttle and typical cruising load operating range to get some EGR and reduce vacuum losses.
I also plan to do some o what's called "auto-tuning" where the ECU will record the variation/compensation it needs to make during actual operation from the fuel maps, and then saves those compensations and makes changes to the actual maps.