Quote:
Originally Posted by vskid3
Shhhh, they don't need to know that.  I think the code was P3020. It's due for emissions testing this month, I just need it to pass that. I've been driving it gently to keep it from using much battery and getting it ready to pass the test.
Really not sure what to do about the battery. Part of me wants to just replace the car with something else, but that would likely end up costing more than most battery replacement options. The rebuild/refresh I did last year cost me $120 for 3 replacement modules and would take me 8-12 hours to do again (will have to wait to see how many actually need replaced). There's a few guys on the local classifieds that'll replace your battery with one they refurbished for $500-1000. I'll have to see if any of them will discuss their methods; if they have a pool of modules that they match together, that's better than what I can do. I wish I could find a low mileage Gen3 battery and swap the modules over, but it seems like everyone just sells them by the module. |
If you have an active P3020, it's going to be tough to pass emissions. No matter how much you baby it, it's going to stress that block. Stay away from Gen3 modules unless they're very low mileage. The Gen3 murder their batteries. They use them more aggressively, and they have cooling problems. I've seen a couple dozen, and they've been 100% consistent with less than 5 good modules. I'll take a 2004 with 200K before I'll touch a Gen3 with 100K.
Highly unlikely you need to go back through the pack like that again. Let it sit for 48 hours and replace any modules that are outside of a .05V total range from highest to lowest EXCEPT the end modules. End modules may be up to .10V below the max.
Buy replacement modules from Hybrid Automotive. They are professionally reconditioned and are very reliable with a 1 year warranty.
If you really want to do a recondition, whole-pack grid charge/discharge is extremely effective.