Someone from ericthecarguy.com kind of responded, they just linked a guide, which should be useful, but it is a click-through, and so far the first two pages do not really say anything, but probably show ads. Is this some kind of ad-revenue-generating trick?
Thanks Eric!
I read the one paragraph and did not really look at this button:
Eric! I don't approve of your color scheme!
I think that is much better. Anyway, before I realized there was a next button I looked at the topics on the left and started reading "Notes on Honda Ignition Systems and Aftermarket Parts:"
Quote:
If your Honda has OE wires on it, leave them alone. In all the years I've worked on Hondas, I’ve very rarely seen any issues with Honda ignition wires, even at very high mileage. I've seen plenty of issues with aftermarket wires. So if you're doing a tune-up and you have Honda wires on your engine, skip replacing them and save yourself some money.
In addition, Hondas don't like aftermarket spark plugs. Use NGK or Nippon Denso plugs only!
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Well, fun. I guess that I should have tested the original wires before I replaced them like everyone said!
Quote:
My inbox is full of people stating that they've replaced their Honda's distributor sub assembly only to find they now have other issues as a result, most notably cam and crank sensor codes, and sometimes even a no-start condition caused by faulty cam and crank sensors. The cam and crank sensors for many Honda engines are located inside the distributor sub assembly.
Stick with OE ignition parts for your Honda and avoid these issues. It's frustrating to see people with the best of intentions trying to tune up or service a performance issue on a Honda using aftermarket parts. I will say that a good substitute for Honda wires are NGK wires. Those are the only aftermarket wires I'll stand behind for Honda vehicles.
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So, an aftermarket distributor was a mistake. Swell. Majestic would ship one for $384.79, but Amazon shipped me a Spectra Premium for $173.25.
I have the same codes I did with the original distributor, though. At least the new wires were a good choice, but people keep saying to replace them.
Quote:
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I’d insist that you check these things prior to your diagnosis. Check your spark plugs, air filter, fuel filter (if your vehicle has one), distributor cap and rotor (if equipped), and the oil level.
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- Replaced with NGK
- Will check now
- It is in the fuel tank
- Replaced
- Also replaced
- Checked when I first had the problem, will check again now.
Finally! On page nine(!) it talks about
Power Balance Testing
Quote:
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A power balance test helps determine the source of a misfire(s). If you have misfire codes or if you have a rough-running engine, this is a good place to start your diagnosis.
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My CELs specify cylinders. Isn't that adequate?
He says to disable fuel injectors one by one and see if the RPMs drop. The next step is to spray carburetor cleaner around the engine and listen for the engine to change.
Shouty recommended that, too!
By the way, I did turn out the lights, pop the hood, and check for sparks last night. I sprayed a ton of water, but did not see any.