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Old 12-30-2019, 10:30 PM   #33 (permalink)
Daschicken
EcoModding flying lizard
 
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Georgia
Posts: 743

Cibbie - '88 Honda CBR 250R
Motorcycle
90 day: 48.49 mpg (US)

Rarity - '06 Honda Accord EX V6
Team Honda
90 day: 29.88 mpg (US)

Baby viff - '86 Honda VFR 400R
Motorcycle
90 day: 42.15 mpg (US)

Latios - '08 Suzuki SV650SF
Motorcycle
90 day: 64.56 mpg (US)

Mazda 3 - '14 Mazda 3 i Sport
90 day: 43.25 mpg (US)
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Lots of new mods just installed! The rear tire hugger is off, and has been off for a while, I need to fabricate some brackets to move it further from the tire, it digs in a little. On to the mods.

V-Strom 650 camshafts are designed for improved low rpm power/rideability as opposed to the more top end oriented SV650 camshafts. V-Strom owners sometimes swap to the SV camshafts for more power, I went the other way. There are instructions on the DL to SV swap, which involves swapping only one pair of cams, shifting the other, and re-marking them. That is great and all, but that doesn't help me for going the other way..

I got a pair of heads with camshafts from a V-Strom and went ahead and installed them. This was a two day project with all the work and screw ups that happened. First time I went to start it, it would only pop a little bit and started pouring oil out the back of the engine. Turns out I didn't seat the valve cover gasket on the rear of the cover, it is really difficult to see back there and I didn't remove the gasket from the head as I would need to reseal it.





You can see a slight difference in the lobe profiles, but nothing significant. V-Strom set on left, SV on right. I think these were the rear cylinder cams. I measured the lobe heights and non lobe diameter as well, but no lobe separation angles or anything like that. The DL intake cams had 0.5mm less lift, while the DL exhaust cams had a whole 1.5mm less lift. The V-Strom cams also had a shallower ramp up, while the SV cams are pointier.

So I fixed the gasket situation and went ahead and rechecked the timing. In my excitement to get this done, I didn't realize I misread the directions that I had, and I should have been using V-Strom instructions to begin with anyways! The instructions for timing the rear cylinder said to spin the engine over one revolution and get back to the front cylinder timing mark. I missed that part, but I got it right anyways. The rear timing was correct to V-Strom specifications, but not the front cylinder. The front cylinder intake camshaft was 90 degrees off.

Luckily I only had to fix the front cylinder. Getting to those camshaft tensioners is no fun. I also didn't have to adjust valve clearances despite the new cams.

While the coolant was drained, I installed a hotter thermostat from the 2003-2006 SV650. It is a 88C (190F) thermostat instead of the 76.5C (170F) thermostat previously installed. As I was finishing this up, my backordered V-Strom velocity stack showed up. I had ordered the velocity stacks previously, with the new thermostat.



So the new velocity stacks went in as well! Definitely not easy, and you have to check by looking at the bottom to make sure they are seated correctly. They did not bulge out on the inside where they meet the airbox. These things are definitely an improvement over the puny ones the SV comes with standard.







When the bike was ready to test ride, all mods had been installed. Apparently I had forgotten another oil leak on the rear head, which I would find later. The bike seemed to idle smoother and quieter, but now had more mechanical noise and a new fizzing noise (oil leak!). Riding away it pulls smooth and strong. It also doesn't buck in higher gears until 1900-2000 RPM instead of the previous 2200 RPM. Accelerating hard below 3000 RPM is now MUCH smoother as it would previously vibrate. Before having to turn back due to the oil leak, I full throttled up to 7000 RPM with no signs of power loss yet. Just smooth torque! I did not pay close attention to coolant temperature on the ride, but the one temp I do remember seeing was 180F. It would usually be around 165F in similar conditions with the standard thermostat. Needs more radiator blocking!

That oil leak I mentioned? It was just a stupid missing gasket for one of the cylinder head cover bolts. It still managed to spray oil all over the areas above and behind the rear cylinder, some of which got on the edges of my rear tire. Replacing the missing gasket eliminated the fizzing noise, and the mechanical noise seems back to normal levels. I tried to spray and wipe all the oily areas, but I suspect it will continue to drip for the next few days.

No word on MPG, but hopefully it will be better! I may have to get a power commander to reduce the fuel, as there is no fuel mixture adjustment built into these things except for maybe altitude. Still have to do a plug chop and check.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Daschicken View Post
Next time i'm at the junkyard I will see if I can get one out.
I did go through with this, pulled one out of a V6 accord but it is a completely different thread diameter on the other end. It would make more sense to get one of the adapters I mentioned above.
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-Kaze o tatakaimasen-

Best trip in V6: 52.0
Best tank in V6: 46.0
Best tank in Mazda: 49.9
Best tank in CBR: 61.3
Best tank in SV: 83.9

Quote:
Originally Posted by MetroMPG View Post
You can lead a fashion-conscious horse to unusual-looking water...


Last edited by Daschicken; 12-30-2019 at 10:40 PM..
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