View Single Post
Old 03-23-2020, 12:25 AM   #165 (permalink)
Xist
Not Doug
 
Xist's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Show Low, AZ
Posts: 12,240

Chorizo - '00 Honda Civic HX, baby! :D
90 day: 35.35 mpg (US)

Mid-Life Crisis Fighter - '99 Honda Accord LX
90 day: 34.2 mpg (US)

Gramps - '04 Toyota Camry LE
90 day: 35.39 mpg (US)

Don't hit me bro - '05 Toyota Camry LE
90 day: 30.49 mpg (US)
Thanks: 7,254
Thanked 2,233 Times in 1,723 Posts
Oil Pan, are we still discussing the proper way, or is this for an extension cord to see how this works?

"Ridgedetail" does not have any results with Google, Home Depot, Lowe's, or Amazon, but "ridgedetail metal conduit" got me this:


Quote:
At 24 in. deep, run direct-bury UF-B wire cable. There’s one restriction: It needs a conduit where the cable is exposed on the outside of the house and to 18 in. below the ground
How to Bury Underground Cable

This stuff?
I would need to order that.

Quote:
A licensed electrician would charge at least several hundred dollars plus materials to run lines from your house to a shed 50 ft. away (not including any work inside your house). You can do the job yourself for a materials cost of about $140.
Quote:
To run the wires inside rigid conduit, you’ll need a hacksaw, a pipe bender capable of bending 1/2-in. rigid conduit with an outside diameter of 3/4 in. (about $30), and a fish tape long enough to reach through the buried pipe ($15 to $60). You’ll also need a pair of pipe wrenches to screw the sections of pipe together, a drill and 1-in. bit capable of penetrating your siding, and wire cutting and stripping tools. The total cost of this project is typically about $2.20 for every foot of buried conduit, plus about $25 for LB fittings and miscellaneous hardware.
Tools:
  • Non-Contact Voltage Tester
  • 1-in. Drill bit
  • 4-in-1 screwdriver
  • Drill bit set
  • Drill/driver - cordless
  • Hacksaw
  • Pipe wrench (2)
  • Pliers
  • Spade
  • Tape measure
  • Torpedo level
  • Wire stripper/cutter
  • Mattock
  • Pipe bender
  • Fish tape
  • Leather gloves.

Materials:
  • [wires?](white and black)
  • Conduit straps
  • Duct seal
  • Electrical boxes
  • Electrical tape
  • EMT (electrical metallic tubing)
  • Fittings (connectors and LBs)
  • GFCI
  • RMC (rigid metal conduit)
  • Stranded electrical wires
  • Switch
  • Wire connectors
  1. "A few weeks before you start the project..."

    Aw nuts!

    "...contact your local building department to obtain an electrical permit if one is required.
  2. A few days before you dig, call 811 to have your underground utility lines marked."
  3. Drill the hole into the house before you start digging just in case you run into an obstacle and have to choose a new location."
  4. Choose a box location
  5. Calculate the length of electrical metallic tubing (EMT) needed to reach from the back of the LB to the box.
  6. Drill a small hole with a long bit to make sure you’re in the right spot.
  7. Drill a 1-in. hole for the LB and conduit.
  8. Screw a 1/2-in. Conduit connector into the back of the LB
  9. Attach a piece of 1/2-in. EMT that’s long enough
  10. Mount the LB to the siding
  11. Go inside and add a conduit connector and a metal electrical box to the other end of the EMT.

    It shows a small version of this image:
  12. Measure from the bottom of the trench to the bottom of the LB fitting.
  13. Mark that measurement on the conduit.
  14. Pull back on the conduit bender until the end stands straight up. A magnetic level lets you know when you’ve got a perfect 90-degree bend.
  15. Thread an LB onto the end.
  16. Thread the pipes together one at a time until you reach the other end. Assemble the conduit run aboveground to make tightening the connections easier. Support the conduit with 2x4s until you’ve connected all but the last section.
  17. Measure for the last section of conduit.
  18. Adjust the measurement for the distance the LB protrudes from the wall.
  19. Hold the bent conduit in place to mark it for cutting.
  20. Mark the pipe, cut, and bend it.
  21. Connect it to the LB with a compression connector
  22. Connect the conduit
  23. Feed the fish tape through the conduit.
  24. Use stranded wire, not solid wire. Use THWN-2 14-gauge stranded wire if you get power from a 15-amp circuit or THWN-2 12-gauge stranded wire for a 20-amp circuit.
  25. Loop the wires through the fish tape and wrap them with electrical tape.
  26. Wrap the hook on the fish tape so it can’t snag.
  27. Pull the wire through the conduit. This is a two-person job—you need a helper at the other end to feed the wires into the conduit. Leave enough extra wire on each end to reach the inside metal box plus 12 in.
  28. Connect the wires inside the shed to a switch. [according to this example]
  29. Run them to a GFCI receptacle.
Electrical Wiring: How to Run Power Anywhere
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	FH11JAU_RUNPOW_12.JPG
Views:	8
Size:	38.5 KB
ID:	27737   Click image for larger version

Name:	FH11JAU_RUNPOW_06.JPG
Views:	78
Size:	44.9 KB
ID:	27740   Click image for larger version

Name:	FH11JAU_RUNPOW_07.JPG
Views:	86
Size:	44.5 KB
ID:	27741   Click image for larger version

Name:	FH11JAU_RUNPOW_08.JPG
Views:	80
Size:	38.8 KB
ID:	27742   Click image for larger version

Name:	FH11JAU_RUNPOW_09.JPG
Views:	81
Size:	28.8 KB
ID:	27743  

Click image for larger version

Name:	FH11JAU_RUNPOW_10.JPG
Views:	80
Size:	39.3 KB
ID:	27744   Click image for larger version

Name:	FH11JAU_RUNPOW_11.JPG
Views:	76
Size:	33.7 KB
ID:	27745  
__________________
"Oh if you use math, reason, and logic you will be hated."--OilPan4
  Reply With Quote