Quote:
Originally Posted by serialk11r
K20A3 head with a turbo is definitely...unusual. That's kind of like a K20C1 (probably should've just used a K20C1 unless the turbo was really cheap).
I still think you should've gone with a K20A. The fuel economy would be probably more than 10% better, no need to take out balance shafts, and you'd have 8600rpm on tap if you felt like having some fun with a Japanese ECU.
|
You're right, it's essentially like building a K20C.
A K20A would have been a nice choice. A few points:
I was typically finding K20A engines for $2200-2500, whereas I paid $800 for my engine. And since I have KPro, I can set my rev limiter to wherever I want. Most choose to rev the K24A up to 7600, I've limited mine to 7100 for longevity. KPro was necessary for getting all of my emissions systems working. Plus the Insight gauge cluster only reads up to 7k and an S2000 cluster would have added maybe $500 more to the total cost.
I may not have needed a $1200 final drive, but I think economy is better with the K24 and a 3.4 FD than it would be with a K20 and a 4.389.
8600rpm with my current transmission ratios is approximately:
1st gear - 53mph
2nd gear - 91mph
3rd gear - 127mph
6th gear - 265mph