Quote:
Originally Posted by aardvarcus
California98Civic,
I will try to post progress as I go. Observe away, but don't expect any metal shaping as good as the photos you shared. 
Aerohead,
I will have to look up that book, I don't have any such books so it would be nice to have a reference.
Freebeard,
I don't yet have a nylon hammer, I will have to add that to the list to keep an eye out for.
Everyone,
Made some more slow but steady progress, I could obviously cut things apart faster but I am more concerned about how things are going to go back together and am letting that guide how things come apart. Which just takes longer.
I managed to get the roof split away from the side panels, made the cuts right where the first roof ridges start. Got the inner roof bracing removed, will shorten and reinstall it. I removed the lower quarter panels, I don't need them with my current plans for a custom wraparound bumper. I have a plan now for how to do the remaining cuts.
Once it is cut apart I will be pulling it in at a 1 in 10 slope, which is an additional 5.71 degrees, putting the sides at about 6.15 degrees after the 6 to 8 inch compound curve transition.
Edit: I was actually quite surprised during the disassembly how much adhesive/caulk was used to seal and hold the vehicle together. I plan to use welding on as many of the surfaces as I can on reassembly. I got a tube of some good 3M panel adhesive for the surfaces for which that is impractical. |
3M makes an automotive adhesive specifically for your type of application. It's only available, retail, through automotive refinishing supply outlets, and is over $20 a tube. Body shops use it to bond aerodynamic kit parts. If you can stomach the price, you'll be delighted in its performance.
Also, if the chassis was electro-plated with zinc, for corrosion protection, be very careful to ventilate your welding area. The vapors won't hurt spot-welding robots on an assembly line, but they will kill you!
