Fuel Economy, Hypermiling, EcoModding News and Forum - EcoModder.com - View Single Post - Buying used, instead of new for environmental reasons -Pros and Cons ?

racprops · 01-02-2021, 11:22 AM

Here is another take on buying used….

You can check the track records. You can avoid buying the latest POS that turns out to be a total mess.

Case in Point: I love my Ford Crown Vic Ex-Cop Car, a model P71. First is these cars were hardened for police work. Second they were (in most cases) well maintained. Third thanks to the computer it cannot be over reved.

And Lastly it has the bear minimum of electronic toys and crap, stuff that can go bad and cost a fortune to repair.

Now ad in their reparation’s: these cars are WELL known to be driven 100K in service, taken off service and then many are sold to Cab companies whom then drive them ANOTHER 200/300K.

There are many that 300K can go 200K more with heads and timing chain service, so 500K+ is done often, and again many do make that 500K without major repairs.

I ended up with what I consider the second best year a 2003, mainly as there was a couple of changes in the 2004 model year. The 04 is the last year of drive by cable, the 05s switch to drive by wire as in the PU controls the throttle. And the 05s have other upgrades to the computer controls that in my book makes it one I do not want. PS I have a 04 as a junk parts car and have made a couple of upgrade 04 stuff to my 03.

As there were so many made there are no problem getting parts, it is easy to fix and cheap to do so.

Same thing with my 93 Chevy van, called the third generation, this base model has been around from 1970. So any real design/engineering flaws have long been found and fixed. And even with my 93 the CPU only controls the engine and transmission. And here I will point out it is a LOT easier to reprogram an OBDI PCM that the newer ones.

All upgrades have been to drive line and again like the Crown Vic tons are all around and in junk yards too.

Sadly I cannot say the same with my 02 Ford Explorer, ( again freebie it was left with me for over a year so I filed on it..cost $1200.00 to repair it for driving) it already has had problems with the electric parts, and get this there is ONLY ONE door with a key lock…all the rest including the back hatch DEPEND on the power locks…. And it has a terrible engine; to service or replace the fuel injectors requires removing the intake manifold. And with its dual OH Cams there is two timing chains and ONE is on the back side of the engine which requires removing the engine to replace. If it goes so does the truck.

And I will NEVER buy a Japanese car. Thank God the three we have had were freebies, given to my wife by her mother from around 1994 to date.

First was 1985 Mazda 626, which at around 120K started to have all kinds of plastic and rubber parts failure, the engine got a cracked head at 140K, I figured Mazda was a bad builder, then we got a 91 Toyota Corona, glad it was free as I ended up spending a few thousands of dollars keeping it on the road, including replacing its engine at 135K. And again the incredible amount of plastic and rubber failures.

Now we have a 2000 Toyota Camry, got it with 110K…we are not at 135K…and same thing, plastic and rubber parts failures all over the place…radiator tank split, wiring problems in the trunk, a PLASTIC thermostat HOUSING..(OMG) the Air intake tube from the air cleaner to the throttle body just fell apart. And others, there is a vapor leak that keeps turning on the check engine light, and even one of the best auto repairmen I have ever met (much better that I) WITH a smoke injection machine and two tries WE cannot find it, in the summer we can smell gasoline from time to time…damn car.

These parts never failed in a 69 VW Bug, (Still in the back yard, needs a transmission, church, now any interior head liner and for me to finish installing A/C ) my 93 Van or any car I have owned..yet I seen these problems in three Japanese cars…and from my research it is common with any Japanese car at 8 to 10 years old, the plastic and rubber parts start to just crumble.

So be warned.

01-02-2021, 11:22 AM	#56 (permalink)
racprops Master EcoModder Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Phoenix AZ Posts: 799 Thanks: 4 Thanked 66 Times in 58 Posts	Here is another take on buying used…. You can check the track records. You can avoid buying the latest POS that turns out to be a total mess. Case in Point: I love my Ford Crown Vic Ex-Cop Car, a model P71. First is these cars were hardened for police work. Second they were (in most cases) well maintained. Third thanks to the computer it cannot be over reved. And Lastly it has the bear minimum of electronic toys and crap, stuff that can go bad and cost a fortune to repair. Now ad in their reparation’s: these cars are WELL known to be driven 100K in service, taken off service and then many are sold to Cab companies whom then drive them ANOTHER 200/300K. There are many that 300K can go 200K more with heads and timing chain service, so 500K+ is done often, and again many do make that 500K without major repairs. I ended up with what I consider the second best year a 2003, mainly as there was a couple of changes in the 2004 model year. The 04 is the last year of drive by cable, the 05s switch to drive by wire as in the PU controls the throttle. And the 05s have other upgrades to the computer controls that in my book makes it one I do not want. PS I have a 04 as a junk parts car and have made a couple of upgrade 04 stuff to my 03. As there were so many made there are no problem getting parts, it is easy to fix and cheap to do so. Same thing with my 93 Chevy van, called the third generation, this base model has been around from 1970. So any real design/engineering flaws have long been found and fixed. And even with my 93 the CPU only controls the engine and transmission. And here I will point out it is a LOT easier to reprogram an OBDI PCM that the newer ones. All upgrades have been to drive line and again like the Crown Vic tons are all around and in junk yards too. Sadly I cannot say the same with my 02 Ford Explorer, ( again freebie it was left with me for over a year so I filed on it..cost $1200.00 to repair it for driving) it already has had problems with the electric parts, and get this there is ONLY ONE door with a key lock…all the rest including the back hatch DEPEND on the power locks…. And it has a terrible engine; to service or replace the fuel injectors requires removing the intake manifold. And with its dual OH Cams there is two timing chains and ONE is on the back side of the engine which requires removing the engine to replace. If it goes so does the truck. And I will NEVER buy a Japanese car. Thank God the three we have had were freebies, given to my wife by her mother from around 1994 to date. First was 1985 Mazda 626, which at around 120K started to have all kinds of plastic and rubber parts failure, the engine got a cracked head at 140K, I figured Mazda was a bad builder, then we got a 91 Toyota Corona, glad it was free as I ended up spending a few thousands of dollars keeping it on the road, including replacing its engine at 135K. And again the incredible amount of plastic and rubber failures. Now we have a 2000 Toyota Camry, got it with 110K…we are not at 135K…and same thing, plastic and rubber parts failures all over the place…radiator tank split, wiring problems in the trunk, a PLASTIC thermostat HOUSING..(OMG) the Air intake tube from the air cleaner to the throttle body just fell apart. And others, there is a vapor leak that keeps turning on the check engine light, and even one of the best auto repairmen I have ever met (much better that I) WITH a smoke injection machine and two tries WE cannot find it, in the summer we can smell gasoline from time to time…damn car. These parts never failed in a 69 VW Bug, (Still in the back yard, needs a transmission, church, now any interior head liner and for me to finish installing A/C ) my 93 Van or any car I have owned..yet I seen these problems in three Japanese cars…and from my research it is common with any Japanese car at 8 to 10 years old, the plastic and rubber parts start to just crumble. So be warned.