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Old 12-06-2021, 07:59 AM   #629 (permalink)
Ecky
Master EcoModder
 
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 5,141

ND Miata - '15 Mazda MX-5 Special Package
90 day: 39.72 mpg (US)

Oxygen Blue - '00 Honda Insight
90 day: 58.66 mpg (US)
Thanks: 2,929
Thanked 2,603 Times in 1,619 Posts
Haven't updated in a while! Here's what's new:

My last few tanks have been the worst ever. I'm now living in metro Detroit, and the Insight was used very heavily as a pickup truck in the months leading up to the move, during the move, and after the move. I have a work vehicle I commute with now, so the Insight's job has largely been pulling a loaded trailer in Michigan city traffic.

This weekend I had a chance to diagnose and fix a few issues I'd been living with, which were all affecting economy. To name a few:

-I was having ready hard cold starts, worse the colder it got. Long cranking, and lots sputtering and dying until the coolant temperature was above ~120F. The issue turned out to be my gauge cluster converter. It's Arduino-based and the inputs used were programmed to be "pull-down", which puts a high ohm resistor in line. Unfortunately during cranking the Arduino would power down, then the inputs would not have any inline resistance, and they would pull down the voltage on the sensors they were reading - particularly the ECT. This caused the ECU to read a very high ECT whenever I tried to start the car, messing up the fuel and ignition compensation that is needed for starts on a cold day. I finally figured this out Saturday and, after adding a physical 50k resistor in line, the car started on the first crank on a 35F morning.

-For the last couple of months I had my lean burn tune disabled while I tried to troubleshoot this.

-Cruise control wasn't working, which turned out to be a wiring issue, from my being in a hurry.

-My kill switch wasn't working either. This ended up being a break in a solder joint to the ground. The kill switch is wired as a nitrous input, where the ECU adds negative fuel until the engine dies, and it simply wasn't seeing the switch close.

I also had some brake light wiring issues (turned out to be on the trailer's harness).

Next up is getting my A/C working again. I didn't give proper clearance for one of the lines and it rubbed on something until the system depressurized.
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