Quote:
Originally Posted by RH77
I... perform the controversial Seafoam crankcase cleanse every year or so to de-gunk (including the brake booster draw).
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If you'll pardon the pun... Oh, you stinker!!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by RH77
But yeah, I've been using Castrol GTX for about 5 years with good results (and Purolator filters for the same amount of time). Inspecting the valvetrain at 120K revealed very little buildup and clear galleries.
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Motor oil [standards] is a moving target!
What was true a couple of years ago doesn't apply today!
To exemplify what I'm saying... 0W-40 is hella more 'thick' than 10W-30... 0W-30 is mad thicker than 5W-20!
If this confuses anybody, let me add to the mix - synthetic oils are thinner than 'dino oil', so called, weight for weight. That's one of the reasons synthetic oils are sooo great! These days you will want to go with thinner oil, for longevity/endurance, NOT thicker, like in 1968!
In the old days, you probably wanted and needed thicker oil than the manufacturer recommended. In the 'new world order' you'll probably want thinner oil than they recommend!
Add to that... the U.S. government has decided you don't need all those additives - the stuff that makes your car last longer - because it wrecks cat converters - which they mandated also! They have mandated that these great additives cannot be sold in 1 qt. containers in automotive stores, but they can be added and sold in non-automotive stores - such as Wal-Mart - or they can be sold in bulk, which commerce and the military depend on...
Plus, there's the 'old car' exemption, if you will. That is, if the oil is designed to be used in pre-2007 vehicles - all bets are off. So, for instance, regular Mobil 1 10W-30 oil, sold in 1 qt. bottles in an automotive stores cannot have over 800 ppm 'zinc' (ZDDP) - but, if it says "HIGH MILEAGE" on the bottle, then it's okay to 'boost' the additives - 1100 ppm ZDDP or whatever the market will bear - and the regulators will turn a 'blind eye' to it.
LoL!
Am I boring you?
