I assume the "big box" auto parts places have the load tester device? I've helped replace batts on many other vehicles than my own where they test the load potential and the alternator production. I guess I let stuff like that go until it fails under normal conditions.
To save the alternator, I suppose it would be a good investment to have the test performed -- especially before Winter sets-in. I can say this, however: I let the batt go to slightly under 10V during a long period of drain while at a volunteer event this past summer. It would always start at 10-11V, charge to 14V or better at idle, and then shut it down and drain to 10V or less instead of idling. This occurred about 4-5 times this past year (storm spotting, with windows up and wipers/rear defrost running + ~100 Watt Radio transmission). I guess I'm optimistic that the batt is abnormally resilient...
RH77
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ptero
Use a load tester. It's a metal box with a resistance circuit. You hook it up to your battery terminals and close the circuit. That enables a serious draw across a heater element. The needle on the gauge of the load tester will slowly drop as your battery charge falls off over ten seconds. If your battery cannot deliver a sufficient flow of electrons, the instrument will indicate that your battery is in need of replacement.
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