Quote:
Originally Posted by Logic
Ah...
So you want to: - Remove the earth electrode off of a std plug.
- Coat the piston top with an electrical insulator.
- Then have a (insulated) conductor stuck to the insulating layer, that starts with a little point in the center of the piston for the plug to spark to, then conducts outward to the piston periphery and sparks back to the head through the squish area?
If so; I assume your piston-top conductor goes to the area with the most squish area?
Clever way to get twin sparks.
IF, as you say, you can get all the gaps (to stay) right and keep things clean enough.
I worry that: - The insulated conductive path on the piston top will accumulate too much temperature and cause pre-ignition.
- (heavy) Spark plug ceramic may work, but just how thick of a layer can one get to stick to a piston top and said conductor reliably?
Pistons accelerate/decelerate at one hell of a rate!
I worked the numbers out once while 'patenting' (stupid of me I now know) a 2-stroke type sump, with reed valves, acting as a supercharger for a 4-stroke engine... (light and compact)
I wanted to put one-way (intake) valves in the piston tops somehow, so you could have 4 exhaust valves per piston in the head and all the possibilities that go with that.
Anyway;
I do recall the 'weights' of the various 'piston top valve' contraptions I came up with being astronomical!..?
Another question:
You aren't running a std ignition (coils) system are you?
There are capacitors and diodes and 'base volts' in all the right places aren't there!?  |
Actually, this is what I want to experiment with in the future.
What I'm talking about in my above post is basically a spray guided piston. This is the name I gave to the center shape of the piston "conductor". It basically directs the flame from the pre-chamber outward at a specific angle. The conductor also serves a second purpose and is used to check piston
height. I made a tool that screws into the spark plug hole. I put the piston I'm checking at TDC and install the tool. The conductor has a step in it the tool fits into. It's kind of like a piston stop. The reason behind this is to check for bending rods. When boost is turned up and or lots of nitrous for power the stock rod configuration works great because it will bend before it actually breaks. I also run the stock pistons for the reason if the engine detonates the ring lands will break, and power will fall off drastically because of it being a 4 cylinder and each having 25% of the total power being made. The third thing the conductor does is directs the fuel to it and makes a rich area that helps feed the pre-chamber. So, this why I came up with the name conductor because it plays a major role in several ways to help make the engine more efficient.