Quote:
Originally Posted by ademonrower
Many thanks for those very good points! Thank you also for making one thing clear: that if I can get the machining done, or do it myself (fortunately I have a lathe), the motor before the gearbox would be the better option. There are a few manual transmission hybrid cars these days, e.g. the Fiat 500 and Ford Fiesta... must be a few on scrap yards somewhere. Fiesta would be good, because it's nearer in weight to my car. I have no idea, but I might be able, essentially, to use the components and electronics, adapting them around my car. I think this one rates as "ninja" on the scale of Ecomodder modifications, right? :-)
|
"...I have a lathe..."
See; I knew that! lol!
You're talking about those Motor-Generator-Starters that fit between the engine and gearbox on some hybrid models right?
They may be made to fit with an adapter plate/s etc, or perhaps fit the whole clutch-motor-gearbox assembly to your engine/car if the ratios and specs are similar enough.
That's certainly Up-There as far as an Ecomod goes.
I would say that putting a gear that matches the gear teeth on the input and/or counter shaft on a motor and fitting/mounting it to the gearbox is likely the better cheaper option.
You might even be able to mount the motor direct to the end of the counter shat if the motors rpms match. It all depends on your specific gearbox.
(You may have to mod the car's transmission tunnel some, somewhere to make space for the motor, but that's not a biggey)
(This shows the gearbox basics for those wondering)
This shows cutting and weldng engine crankcases etc to make a 2 cylinder from 2 one cylinders.
As similar modding to your gearbox would be required, it serves to show that cutting, welding and machining a gearbox like casing is pretty straight forward. Inspiration!
One last thing: While a PM magnet motor is efficient it would 'drag' on the engine when not in use.
A motor with a DC rotor winding is cheaper and you can just cut power to the rotor for coasting (most efficient conservation of energy) and when you don't want to use it like if there's a fault somewhere.
Playing with the rotor voltage opens up all sorts of opportunities! (higher rpm ranges, settings to match controller/regen, etc)
So this cheaper motor option may end up being more efficient overall..?
Some of the alternator stuff being looked at:
https://www.mdpi.com/2075-1702/10/6/478