"... In the diagram above, the contact areas where losses occur due to friction are shown in yellow. The most significant energy losses occur around the piston (at approximately 45% of [friction] losses); followed by the links between the connecting rod, crankshaft and cylinder block (approximately 30%); and around the valves and their actuating system (approximately 10%)...
...
around 15% less fuel consumption..."
https://theconversation.com/how-cars...ir-fuel-197752
I say again:
Want an easy way to save fuel:
Boil a cup of water and stir in a heaped tablespoon of Boric Acid (NOT Boracic)
Add that to a warmed up engine's oil and immediately do around 10km of sedate driving.
Oil should be at the full level: Any excess water will boil off quickly, taking the level back to where it was before.
When you notice the engine smooth out; you're good to go.
Gearbox:
Works well here too (at lower doses) BUT:
The syncro rings in a gearbox rely on friction to get the gears spinning at the same speed so they don't grate.
Those that have/can drive a manual without a clutch wont have a problem. Basically you have to rev match and/or apply pressure to the reqd gear's syncro for a bit longer before pushing the gear home.
Or add only very little.
Diff:
Works very well here too (at lower doses) BUT:
Limited Slip Differentials rely on friction to work, so your limited slip will become a LOT less limited.
Limited Slip Differentials are only useful in very enthusiastic driving.
If you don't know what a LS Diff is; you don't need one and probably don't have one.
(Sorts out Diff Whine)
Wheel Bearing grease:
Requires less water to Boric Acid ratio to make a paste of grease-like consistency that will mix well with the grease.
Volkswagens: (Golf, Jetta, etc)
Have a very fine mesh over the oil pump pickup.
If you have been adding any old oil brand to the engine, the various additives have formed a sludge thats attached to the engine interior.
That sludge comes loose thx to the Boric Acid and will block the fine seive.
Using BA in these engines involves dropping the sump more than once to clean the mess out, and/or replacing the fine mesh with a courser mesh.
Very old smokey engines:
Your oil pressure will be down due to excessive wear in the main etc pressure fed bearings.
The Boric Acid + Boiling Water mix will temporarily thin the oil and could lead to 'oil pressure too low' issues.
Here you need to add a quarter cup of BA at a time a drive to get it boiled off between adding more.
If you're thinking of shouting Unicorn:
Good! I look forward to it!
We can play a game:
For every peer reviewed published research paper I post, saying this works; you post one saying it doesn't. OK?
I'll be starting off with the studies done by the inventors of this; Argonne National Labs, so do come prepared.
I don't want to mess up my oil chemistry:
You've heard the saying: "Oil and water don't mix.."
That's correct: They form an emulsion of tiny droplets of water in the oil.
With BA added; said droplets react with and coat the metal surfaces and any left over water simply boils off.
ie: Your oil's chemistry is not changed because what you're adding does not dissolve into the oil.
If
you're uncomfortable with adding water to your oil: NB that for every liter of fuel burned your engine produces about a liter of water.
A lot of that goes past the piston rings , so there's already a substantial amount of water in your engine oil. Water in which various mild acids, also formed during combustion, are dissolved.
I suggest an immediate emergency oil change, then never starting the car ever again!