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Old 12-15-2008, 11:32 AM   #748 (permalink)
bennelson
EV test pilot
 
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Oconomowoc, WI, USA
Posts: 4,435

Electric Cycle - '81 Kawasaki KZ440
90 day: 334.6 mpg (US)

S10 - '95 Chevy S10
90 day: 30.48 mpg (US)

Electro-Metro - '96 Ben Nelson's "Electro-Metro"
90 day: 129.81 mpg (US)

The Wife's Car - Plug-in Prius - '04 Toyota Prius
90 day: 78.16 mpg (US)
Thanks: 17
Thanked 663 Times in 388 Posts
It's 2 degrees F outside this morning!

I drove the Metro to work.

The cabin was preheated for an hour using an oil-filled electric radiator. The car was not bad inside temperature-wise. My hands didn't freeze to the steering wheel, nor did my backside get a terrible chill sitting down.

When backing out of the garage, I thought I had left the parking brake on. The frame and body of the car was so cold, the car would come to almost an instant stop as soon as I let off the accelerator.

Once on the road, I realized one thing I hadn't done yet was hook up the speedometer.... Not sure how FAST I was driving in the cold. Fortunately, there was very little traffic.

My ammeter would spike really fast under load in third gear. I think the batteries are colder, so they output less volts and thus needs more amps. Just the car being so cold seemed to add a LOT of resistance to the motor.

I still have issues with the windshield fogging up. It's not iced up, and doesn't start right away, but it doesn't take too much just plain breathing before it fogs up pretty good.

The Metro has mechanical-driven controls for the heating and vents. I have it set to recirculate internal air. Can anyone tell me if I should be using the hot or cold setting? The hot setting should drive air past the heater core, which is not hooked up, and can have cold air from under the hood going right into it. Where does the air come from if you set the blower to cold? If it's just from inside the passenger compartment, bypassing the heater core, the cold setting might be ever so slightly warmer than the hot setting!
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