View Single Post
Old 01-15-2009, 09:09 AM   #13 (permalink)
Daox
Administrator
 
Daox's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Germantown, WI
Posts: 11,203

CM400E - '81 Honda CM400E
90 day: 51.49 mpg (US)

Daox's Grey Prius - '04 Toyota Prius
Team Toyota
90 day: 49.53 mpg (US)

Daox's Insight - '00 Honda Insight
90 day: 64.33 mpg (US)

Swarthy - '14 Mitsubishi Mirage DE
Mitsubishi
90 day: 56.69 mpg (US)

Daox's Volt - '13 Chevrolet Volt
Thanks: 2,501
Thanked 2,588 Times in 1,555 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by poindexter View Post
Good point and cool idea.

I don't think just any grille block design would work with a door lock actuator. At some point I imagined having just a cover that hinges forward to open, but I think a door lock actuator wouldn't have any holding force once the voltage is removed. Maybe a grille block with a sliding slotted door would be good.
I think either one would work. If you wanted a hinged door you could just make an L shaped pivot arm and connect it to the actuator and door. My main concern is what design is superior when it comes to snow and ice. I tend to side with the hinged door for this reason since there is less surface area to have snow/ice build up on. Also, most h-bridges that I've seen have a 'brake' setting which would allow the actuator to hold in position. Not ideal as it still sucks electricity. However, I think most grill doors will be made of something fairly lightweight and it shouldn't be a problem holding them in place. But, this issue would suggest a sliding door would probably be better.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 93Cobra#2771 View Post
Actually shows what I know. Didn't know what an h bridge is. LOL
I never even knew h-bridges existed until about a week ago when dcb enlightened me to the fact that the arduino could not even come close to powering the actuator alone. Lucky for me, I never tried it.
__________________
Current project: A better alternator delete
  Reply With Quote