Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Lee
I don't think anyone ran on 2 long enough to cause problems. We could tell it was the road to nowhere pretty quickly.
As to your problem, I don't see how the cutoff could have had anything to do with it.
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Road to nowhere?
I'm getting the impression now that the cutoff has nothing to do with my problem. The car's prior owner beat the crud out of it. I may not have compression on cylinders two and four, and on three and one, the compression may only be 70psi ( I say may because the compression tester used was questionable. Had to flick the gauge to get a reading, so it'll be redone soon hopefully). I hope I don't get in trouble to this, but I'll post a quote from somebody who says the fuel cutoff on a 4 cylinder is a horrible idea.
''adding a cutoff switch to a fuel injector was about the stupidest thing you could have done to your motor.
touching the distributor without using a timing light and adjusting it the proper way with the service connector and exact idle rpm was the second stupidest thing you have done to your motor.
not keeping the valve lash clearances within spec at all times was the third stupidest thing you've done to your motor.
the combination of these 3 things is what cooked your valves, and probably damaged a few other things in the process.
engines need to maintain a specific balance at all times. altering anything by a large amount will throw off this balance. shutting off the fuel supply to one cylinder will have the largest affect on the balance of everything. any alteration to the balance of the motor will destroy nearly every internal moving part imaginable. im referring to actual balance by the way, in regards to weight, momentum, constant forces, pulsed forces, timing events of the pulses, etc etc
when you shut off an injector, even though it is no longer injecting anything, there is still fuel present that hasnt fully burned off. for the next several combustion strokes after shutting the injector off, its still sparking, its still getting air, and its still getting fuel but only a very very minor amount of fuel aka running lean as all holy ****, which will definitely melt everything in the vicinity of the combustion chamber.
you advanced your distributor by rotating it counterclockwise. but the question is do you have any idea if you advanced it closer to stock timing (previously too retarded, now closer to perfect) or if you advanced it beyond stock timing (previously near perfect, now way too advanced). and i know you can't answer that question because you didnt use a timing light, so you have no idea where it was previously and you have no idea where it is now. doing this is simply begging to make your engine's internals become externals.
never once mentioning doing a valve lash adjustment tells me your valve lash clearances are guaranteed to not be within spec. too loose of a clearance will cause a poorly running engine, and will cause damage to the rockers and the cams. too tight of a clearance will cause burned valves and burned valve seats, which will require removing and stripping the head, getting a valve job done (re-cutting the valve seats), and replacing all the valves. it also destroys the valve seals.
when it comes to engines, not listening to those that know will usually cost you a pretty heavy amount of damage. you're obviously the type of person that likes to try things on your own just to see what happens without caring what anyone else tells you. and in most real-world situations that can be very beneficial if you use some common sense after learning some things from the outcome. but when it comes to motors, there is a right way and a wrong way. the knowledgable people will tell you the right way of doing things. anything else is the wrong way, and WILL cause severe engine damage. the recommended intervals for specific maintainance procedures is considered advice from those that know. and if you dont know when something was done last, act as if it is past due, and do it.
properly set ignition timing and properly adjusted valve lash clearances are the two most important things in a honda motor, even more important than changing the oil at all let alone changing it at the proper mileage/time interval.''
I'm also hearing that it will cause the ECU to run lean, and burn everything out. That makes sense in a way. Also, I was worrying about warping, but that doesn't concern me, as long as I've got my coolant topped up.
Edit- I forgot to mention I also messed with my dizzy, but that was after the initial install. It's gone... fifty miles(?) so far with it advanced. I did that for a slight power gain when I'm running on two.