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Old 04-10-2009, 09:26 PM   #863 (permalink)
bennelson
EV test pilot
 
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Oconomowoc, WI, USA
Posts: 4,435

Electric Cycle - '81 Kawasaki KZ440
90 day: 334.6 mpg (US)

S10 - '95 Chevy S10
90 day: 30.48 mpg (US)

Electro-Metro - '96 Ben Nelson's "Electro-Metro"
90 day: 129.81 mpg (US)

The Wife's Car - Plug-in Prius - '04 Toyota Prius
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When I turned off the car....the last time BEFORE turning it on and having the POOF!, the contactor sounded funny. It makes a very particular sound, and sounded different that time.

I think that's when the controller actually failed. I had turned the key off rather quickly, and I think the contactor didn't release quick enough. Then, the 12V power would have been OFF to the controller while the main contactor was still on.

Then, when I went to turn the car back on, the controller was already stuck in a "full-on" situation. When I turned on the main contactor the motor started spinning right away.

I got the box apart. Man, that Loctite makes it hard to get those heat sink screws out!

It was the mosfets! The 3 closest to the B- bar have their little legs blown off. I think those were the dog mosfets. Darin's and my mosfets are over on the other end.

The smoke and ick in there made it look like maybe it was the capacitor on that end. It was hard to see through the enclosure.

The couple of resistors on that end are gone too!


If timing and order are so important that the controller will destroy itself if you do it wrong, maybe some sort of contactor control DOES need to be built into the controller.

I might even worry about the possibility of accidental loss of 12v power to the controller while driving to cause it to blow!
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