[brucepick]

Good to see you here!

I got my '97 HX in late Sept. '08. Hopefully I've learned a few things since then.

I'm basically with SVOboy with regard to his notes on #s 1-11.

OK, here are a few notes from my experiences.

1) Dipstick is only 1/2 quart between the two marks. So don't be fooled into overfilling. I add 8 oz. when it gets down near the bottom mark; that brings it up to about the 2/3 level.

2) My engine had blocked (sludged??) drain passages so that it took 1/2 hour for any oil I added to show up properly on the stick. So watch for that in case yours has that ailment.

3) I started the Auto RX treatment cycle on mine just over 3K miles ago. It was burning about 1 qt per 1000 miles, plus the sludge issue. Auto RX is very thick so I recommend using the thinnest dino oil that Honda recommends (5W/30) with the Auto RX.

3a) In general, use thinner oil for better FE. You mentioned Torco 15/40 with an additive; unless the additive brings it back to 5/30 I'd avoid it. 15W/40 was great in our '80s Volvos but that engine was designed in the '70s, if not earlier. Honda's recommend is 5/30; I wouldn't go thicker unless it was leaking past the seals quickly.

3b) I resolved most of the sludge issue (oil draining down slowly) by using GUNK engine cleaner, in the oil. I figured I'd clean up what I could quickly at low cost first, then do Auto RX. I you go that route, be sure to double-rinse with plain oil to clean out the GUNK before putting it back on the road. I didn't want ANY gunk cleaner left in my engine, long-term.

3c) My oil still darkens noticeably after about 1000 miles. It goes grayish/blackish, not deeper and deeper gold and then brown. I figure it must be fine carbon particles. I've found that just changing the filter (early, before an oil change is due) cleans up the oil nicely. Now while finishing up the Auto RX treatment cycles I plan to change the filter when the oil shows signs of this. My main concern is that the filter becomes clogged and goes into bypass mode, circulating abrasive junk through the engine. So I'll keep refreshing the filter as needed while finishing up the Auto RX treatment.

4) I definitely recommend a ScanGauge. I use it mostly to monitor when I'm in/out of Lean Burn mode, and to help get there and stay there. I also monitor the engine temp on ScanGauge; with grill block in place I don't want to take a chance on overheating. I'd spend the money on that rather than get any of the fly-by-night bogus enhancements. BTW, ScanGauge will enable you to read any CEL codes and clear the CEL in seconds, even while driving.

5) The radiator fan comes on at ECT 204ºF. Sometimes 206. Pulls the temp down to about 192-196ºF. Normally ECT is 179ºF if heater is running and 182/184/186 if not. My t'stat is stock, from the Honda dealer, changed just after I bought the car.

5a) From the above, you can see that getting a t'stat that's hotter by 10ºF should bring normal top temp of 186 up to 196. I wouldn't go with more of an increase than that as normal temp fluctuations would likely bring the fan on. Even so I'm personally staying with the stock t'stat. Head gasket replacement etc. is something I prefer to avoid.

6) The 5-wire Oxy sensor is very expensive but rarely fails. I doubt you'll easily read it with an aftermarket fuel/ignition management system. Unless you are retired from the Honda team that designed the VX/HX system I'd recommend you use ScanGauge + MPGuino to monitor things and keep the stock engine management.

7) WAI definitely helps it to stay in Lean Burn when ambient goes below about 50F or so. However I've limited my WAI to about 100-110ºF because I haven't completely sorted out whether I'm getting knock due to running the intake too hot. My system generally runs about 30ºF above ambient when using the WAI.

8) Blocking the cat side of the grill also helps a LOT. Keeps the cat hot. If it cools off the computer takes it right out of LB.

Rumors that I'm paid by the word are entirely untrue.