ATTN all Civic Vx , Cx , d15z1 or d15b8 owners! * injector verification / database *

[LEANBURN DUDE]

I really need your guys help. My 93 Vx has always gotten poor fuel economy and I think I have finally narrowed it down to the fuel injectors being changed at some point. The car is all stock otherwise. At least one has been changed as it has different numbers/digits than the other three. Either way after extensive searching I cannot find what the identifying numbers/digits are supposed to be. PLEASE HELP ME!!!

In which case I thought it would be a great chance to compile a database here about the correct fuel injectors that are supposed to be on our Civic Vx's or Cx's ( as they share the same rare 190cc injectors.) If enough owners chim in we will have a great resource for everyone to verify that they have the right ones.

How to: It only takes a pop of the hood and a twist of the injector to view the numbers/digits. (They turn side to side while installed very easily) There will be four numbers/letters on the left side of the injector body.

Please help your fellow ecomodder verify his/her injectors!

[TomO]

I could use this info as well, and could compile a database in order to help other VX/CX owners and people that wish to swap a D15Z1 into another car.

[user removed]

If I understand what you are looking for there is a line of 4 (0000)circles that point towards the right strut tower on mine, and I know they are original.

first 0 is a 5
second two 0 are blank with dark blue paint in them
third is an A I believe

so its 5 0 0 A.

Not sure if that is what you are looking for. I don't want to twist them around since they have been there for 15.5 years.

I had to use a flashlight and a magnifying glass to see them .

regards
Mech

[TomO]

That is exactly the info we are looking for Mech, thanks.

Did you happen to notice any color dots on the top of the injector or the vertical side near the top? I think the colors have more impact on the parts then the numbers as the numbers may be a lot reference.

[user removed]

Just above the 4-0000 marks there is a blue dot on the side of the vertical part of the plastic housing. On the other side on the top flat of the plastic is a white dot.

On the lower portion bright metal band there is a green stripe on the left and a white one on the right. More of a slash mark than a dot.

I can take some photos is you need them to better understand the explanation.

regards
Mech

[Dave's Civic Duty]

I will check to see if I can move my injectors to get a number. I've got the hood up in my garage working on getting out my old alternator. I have an open diode, anyhow that blasted bottom bolt won't budge. Don't want to damage the aluminum bracket. I have 2 days worth of PB Blaster soaking. A 24 mm open end fits on the square side, but it seems like it's welded in.

Any suggestions.
Dave

[Christ]

The injectors used in D-series Civics are all basically 190cc or 240cc... that's about the only part that's going to make a difference in FE, really. Spray pattern might have an effect, but it's not going to be noticeable at the low power settings you're experiencing.



1988-'91 Civic Si/CRX Si Peak and Hold 240cc
1992-'95 Civic Saturated 240cc
1996-'00 Civic dx cx and lx Saturated 190cc
1996-'00 Civic ex/si Saturated 240cc

The problem could arise when someone puts 240cc injectors in the 190cc engines, but it's not likely that's the case here. Someone could have put 190cc injectors in your 240cc requirement, but that would only make the injector duty cycle increase to meet fuel requirements, and it wouldn't really even do that in your case, because you're never touching the max flow rate of the injectors.

In fact, I don't think you can really affect fuel economy too much by changing injectors at all, because the ECM just compensates for increased or decreased flow as much as it can. If it can't compensate to bring the mixture back into a reasonable margin, it will signal the CEL to come on, probably with an O2 sensor code.

[Christ]

Originally Posted by Dave's Civic Duty

I will check to see if I can move my injectors to get a number. I've got the hood up in my garage working on getting out my old alternator. I have an open diode, anyhow that blasted bottom bolt won't budge. Don't want to damage the aluminum bracket. I have 2 days worth of PB Blaster soaking. A 24 mm open end fits on the square side, but it seems like it's welded in.

Any suggestions.
Dave

Dave -

IIRC, the through bolt doesn't get turned. It gets tapped out. (The square headed one) You remove the nut, turn the alternator to remove the belt, then tap the through bolt out to the rear.

It's like a carriage bolt in that it's designed to fit in without turning, so that you can tighten the front nut without spinning the bolt or having to hold it with anything, making for more trouble.

[Dave's Civic Duty]

Hi Christ,

Yes I realize that, I have the Alt moving back & forth. I would think the square would move somewhat. 14 plus years of NE Ohio salt is what's keeping it locked up. I was tapping on the bolt head, 12mm, but no go. I was talking to a mechanic & he uses a air hammer device. Wait I have a palm nailer somewhere!

Dave

He said I may have to replace the bolt when I'm done, he says that's what usually happens. Maybe a little grease before I install?

[Dave's Civic Duty]

I see no numbers just white & blue factory marks. Under the white line I see 4 dots is all.

I did get my bottom bolt out. The palm nailer got it to finally move. I had to go to the hardware store & I bought a stainless bolt & lock nut. Works like a charm.
Haven't taken it for a test ride yet but it starts like my other Honda's instead of 7 or 8 turns before it hits. Snowing like a big dog out & I want to change my oil before it gets all snow covered.

Thanks,
Dave