Driving in snow - 2wd or 4wd

[serialk11r]

Since my FRS is RWD and I just got myself a season pass at a Tahoe ski resort, I have been looking into this.

I realized that in California, if you have 2WD and the conditions are bad, you're forced to use chains/cables (snow tires alone won't do), so I'm going to just get 2 pairs of cables if I try to take my car up the mountains. Generally speaking if the road has more than a bit of slush on it, they start requiring chains, but seeing how 4WD all seasons isn't enough to get out of minor snow, I'd probably throw the cables on the second I see anything frozen on the ground.

Maybe check your state laws, they might require you to have chains.

[ConnClark]

With my current car I have AWD. I also has an Enhanced Stability Program that will apply the brakes to any spinning wheel to transfer power to the rest. It will also throttle the engine if it thinks it is needed. I have only had it kick in twice and each time I have reacted almost just as quick to pull my foot out of it. Next time we get a good snow or ice storm I will hit the override button and see how things go. I can't imagine that the applying of the brakes do good things for mileage.

On my old car, with summer touring tires, when we had an ice storm I put chains on all four wheels. I was like superman cutting in and out of traffic and could stop on a dime compared to anyone else. Note: Out stopping everyone else is just asking to be rear ended.

[serialk11r]

Originally Posted by ConnClark

I can't imagine that the applying of the brakes do good things for mileage.

I would not be thinking about brakes killing gas mileage in that situation, a spinning wheel is even less efficient because less of the engines power is making it to the ground! More traction = better gas mileage.

A true lockable diff would be better, because the wheel with less traction is fully speed limited and if the other wheel does have traction, the slipping wheel can never slip very much. I'm kind of glad I have a Torsen after going to an autocross and realizing how much more control I had over the rear end via throttle.

[LitterBug]

Originally Posted by ConnClark

I can't imagine that the applying of the brakes do good things for mileage.

Even worse for brake pad wear! I never wear out the rears but went through the rears on my GMC Sierra in under 70,000 miles with hardly any wear on the fronts. Appears there were a few too many spirited times where I forgot to turn off the TC/ASM when playing in 2WD.

Cheers!
LitterBug

[skyking]

good tires and a light foot will get you by in the flatlands and on well plowed roads. In the steep areas and unplowed, the extra drive axle does wonders for both control and forward progress.
It is important to make the distinction between 4wd and AWD.
4wd is just that, and has a selectable transfer case to engage the front axle drive.
AWD has several flavors that each have some benefits and disadvantages, but all share the common feature of some sort of fluid or friction coupling between the power and the rear axle.
We have an AWD honda pilot that is great below 30 MPH in any condition, but at 30 it will take power off the rear axle. Should be no problem, right? Over the years I have had several instances of unplowed mountain passes I could easily drive 40 on, except for that lovely little feature. Most people won't get into that situation.
It also had a locking button that would lock the center differential AND the rear diff in reverse or 1st gear only. I only ever played with it but wow, it was a nice 3 wheel goat at that point. I tried it out and it turned those three in perfect harmony. Don't try to turn as it will probably damage the light axles and components that are typical in 'lite' car systems.

[AlaricD]

Unless I read through too quickly and missed someone asking about it, or pointing it out-- everyone here knows that snow tires should be on EACH wheel, right?

One feature a friend's Lexus RX300 (AWD) has is a "snow mode" for the transmission, which, so long as the light is lit and the transmission lever is in "2" or "D", forces the vehicle to launch in second gear instead of first, to help you get started. Again, the main thing a lot of people have touched on is: "Being able to STOP is more important than being able to start", so studless ice/snow tires (of course, on EACH wheel) will go a long way towards that.

[spdfrk]

A real set of snow tires like Nokian Hakka R2's will let you stop/start/turn with full control - cheapest insurance ever. My brother has an RX300 awd and has never been stuck.

Remember that chains will inhibit winter tires from functioning properly

[jamesqf]

Originally Posted by AlaricD

"Being able to STOP is more important than being able to start"

Though you can often use the berm of piled-up snow alongside the road as an emergency braking feature. Actually had to do this once, when I came around a downhill curve to find a bus broadsided across the road.

[redpoint5]

Originally Posted by ConnClark

It will also throttle the engine if it thinks it is needed. I have only had it kick in twice and each time I have reacted almost just as quick to pull my foot out of it. Next time we get a good snow or ice storm I will hit the override button and see how things go.

Try the override compared to allowing the computer manage the throttle. You might be surprised at how well it works.

I'm an excellent snow driver and very good at feathering the throttle, but my TSX did a better job at managing it than I ever could. I made 3 attempts to manually go up my driveway in the snow and failed miserably. After turning the traction control back on and flooring the throttle, the car slowly gained momentum and made it up.