12-02-2015, 10:58 AM
|
#21 (permalink)
|
Master EcoWalker
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Nieuwegein, the Netherlands
Posts: 3,999
Thanks: 1,714
Thanked 2,248 Times in 1,456 Posts
|
The difference in grip level on snow and ice between the all weather tires on my previous car and the Continental TS 810's on my Insight is quite large.
I saw a car ahead of me slip off the road with no apparent cause but for the icy snow. When he got going again I waited at the spot where he started his slide, then launched my car trusting the traction control would kick in immediately as it would have insufficient grip on the ice. But it jumped forward almost as if it were on dry tarmac.
Three years onwards, the thread depth halved, I feel there is not as much grip as when they were new. So that remains a point of concern; don't run them down too far or they lose the very property you bought them for.
__________________
2011 Honda Insight + HID, LEDs, tiny PV panel, extra brake pad return springs, neutral wheel alignment, 44/42 PSI (air), PHEV light (inop), tightened wheel nut.
lifetime FE over 0.2 Gigameter or 0.13 Megamile.
For confirmation go to people just like you.
For education go to people unlike yourself.
|
|
|
Today
|
|
|
Other popular topics in this forum...
|
|
|
12-02-2015, 11:10 AM
|
#22 (permalink)
|
EcoGeek
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 11
Thanks: 5
Thanked 5 Times in 4 Posts
|
Where I live, (the great flatlands of Ohio USA) 2WD is more than capable of getting around in just about any weather. The biggest traction factor is the TIRES. A good set of all season tires with decent tread depth is usually all that is needed. Winter (M+S) tires if you want gonzo good traction. I actually prefer 2WD rear wheel drive with Traction control and stabilitrak turned off, to fishtail all over the place like a dirt stock racer. I ALWAYS go out on the first snow of the season and renew my winter driving skills in an empty parking lot and/or abandoned streets. Better to know what the limits are before you need them.
I used to believe 4WD made no difference on stopping till I actually owned one. Now I know it helps. With 4WD you are LESS likely to lock up the wheels since they are all tied together. With full time 4WD enabled, the Car/truck will also want to track straight making low speed turns almost impossible. I find driving with 4WD enabled annoying, because the overall traction and control is TOO good compared to everyone else around. It comes in real handy when pulling stuck people out of their bind.
Cheers!
LitterBug
2000 Insight (commuter)
2009 GMC Sierra (really, really, really bad weather)
|
|
|
12-02-2015, 12:30 PM
|
#23 (permalink)
|
EcoModding Lurker
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Finland
Posts: 69
Thanks: 1
Thanked 21 Times in 15 Posts
|
As many have said, tires are really important. A good illustration of this can be seen at
In order of priority I would put tires first, traction control / stability control second, and 4WD third. The point made earlier about driving in hilly areas is a good one though. That isn't a problem I face, and I may view things differently if I lived in the mountains.
Another point worth mentioning is that tire pressures are more important in winter. In summer we (aiming for economy) rarely if ever approach the traction limit of our tires and can over-inflate the tires without serious consequences. This is not true in winter. Generally I run much lower pressures in winter and if necessary drop them very low (maybe 10 psi) to get traction where others get stuck.
|
|
|
The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to SDMCF For This Useful Post:
|
|
12-02-2015, 01:58 PM
|
#24 (permalink)
|
.........................
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Buckley, WA
Posts: 1,597
Thanks: 391
Thanked 488 Times in 316 Posts
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cd
Thanks for the replies guys.
Let me add to the question : Does a 4WD handle any better than a 2WD in snow ?
For example, when going around corners.
Main concern is safety.
My friend up in Canada is looking at buying an suv - a new Honda CR-V , a Jeep Puberty ...er Liberty , and other smallish suvs.
My question mainly pertains to SUVs.
|
In very slippery conditions, FWD/4WD can be worse than RWD. Applying power to the front wheels can get them to slide, and sliding tires won't help you turn. Keep your front tires rolling, and you'll have more control. FWD/4WD can help you pull the front end around a corner by applying power in moderately slippery conditions. I'd say it's a wash, but personally prefer RWD in snow.
I think that if you need 4WD or AWD for snow, you shouldn't be driving in snow...
I'll reiterate what everyone else said. Tires are far more important that what wheels are being driven. Get good snow tires (ideally on a spare set of wheels that you can swap out every spring/fall) instead of relying on all-seasons and you'll be able to handle anything you encounter on a road.
|
|
|
12-02-2015, 02:17 PM
|
#25 (permalink)
|
Master EcoModder
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Phillips, WI
Posts: 1,018
Thanks: 192
Thanked 467 Times in 287 Posts
|
What everybody else said.
Plowing snow with the front bumper can plug the radiator with snow and cause overheating. It happened to my sister once up in the Michigan Upper Peninsula.
Percentage of weight on the drive wheels is important. A FWD car with one person may have 60% of the weight on the front wheels, and excellent traction.
My 2WD pickup with topper, bed mat, trailer hitch receiver, toolbox, and box of chains in the back has about 50% of its weight on the drive wheels. Traction is adequate, and I have chains when needed (about once every two years).
A 4WD pickup with one person and nothing in the box will have as little as 40% of its weight on the rear wheels. Traction will be poor. Four wheel drive trucks have several hundred pounds of 4WD stuff, with that weight centered over the front axle. That shifts the weight distribution enough that 4WD trucks need 4WD in snow, while 2WD trucks do not need 4WD in snow.
I have over 40 years driving experience in snow country, and have never owned or used 4WD. Never needed it, either.
__________________
06 Canyon: The vacuum gauge plus wheel covers helped increase summer 2015 mileage to 38.5 MPG, while summer 2016 mileage was 38.6 MPG without the wheel covers. Drove 33,021 miles 2016-2018 at 35.00 MPG.
22 Maverick: Summer 2022 burned 62.74 gallons in 3145.1 miles for 50.1 MPG. Winter 2023-2024 - 2416.7 miles, 58.66 gallons for 41 MPG.
|
|
|
12-02-2015, 05:43 PM
|
#26 (permalink)
|
Rat Racer
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Route 16
Posts: 4,150
Thanks: 1,784
Thanked 1,922 Times in 1,246 Posts
|
Loved my Subaru. After nine winters with it I was uneasy with the blizzard right after I bought my Fit. But after a few days I was back to passing Jeeps.
We all got where we were going back when everything was RWD. FWD made things a lot easier. AWD? Getting started, engine braking and lane changes (when there's a ridge of snow in the middle) are a lot better, and that's about it.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by sheepdog44
Transmission type Efficiency
Manual neutral engine off.100% @∞MPG <----- Fun Fact.
Manual 1:1 gear ratio .......98%
CVT belt ............................88%
Automatic .........................86%
|
|
|
|
12-02-2015, 05:52 PM
|
#27 (permalink)
|
Master EcoModder
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: NY state
Posts: 501
Thanks: 1
Thanked 51 Times in 38 Posts
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by JRMichler
What everybody else said.
Plowing snow with the front bumper can plug the radiator with snow and cause overheating. It happened to my sister once up in the Michigan Upper Peninsula.
.
|
Did that with the Focus a few years ago. Didn't even have a grille block on! Crashed through a pretty big snow bank blocking my parking lot then got on the highway. The overflow tank was overflowing.
|
|
|
12-02-2015, 05:59 PM
|
#28 (permalink)
|
Master EcoModder
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Western Wisconsin
Posts: 3,903
Thanks: 867
Thanked 434 Times in 354 Posts
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by SDMCF
Another point worth mentioning is that tire pressures are more important in winter. In summer we (aiming for economy) rarely if ever approach the traction limit of our tires and can over-inflate the tires without serious consequences. This is not true in winter. Generally I run much lower pressures in winter and if necessary drop them very low (maybe 10 psi) to get traction where others get stuck.
|
Tirerack.com did some tests a few years back with tire pressure and traction on snow, they found that with low pressure they lost traction and recommended full pressure.
My snow tires have a 51psi sidewall rating and I keep them at that pressure.
|
|
|
12-02-2015, 06:21 PM
|
#29 (permalink)
|
Master EcoModder
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: ellington, ct
Posts: 831
Thanks: 44
Thanked 104 Times in 80 Posts
|
My only real experience with 4wd was my grandfather's old subie wagon. This was back in the 80s. It was a late 70s model. One of the first subie 4x4s. On regular tires, thaat damn thing would go anywhere!
Today, most cars with fwd and traction control will get most anyone anywhere they need to get. If not, you really shouldn't be out anyway. The only way I could see buying one was if I lived in a very snowy, very hilly area AND I had the need to get out when things turn to sheet.
Also, not all TC is created equal. The OL's 2003 Odyssey is a beast in the snow. The TC makes it pull like it has a locked diff. My 2009 Sonata's TC is complete garbage. Most of the time, it just kills power. I have actually turned it off in disgust to be able to get up a hill.
|
|
|
12-02-2015, 08:28 PM
|
#30 (permalink)
|
Master EcoModder
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Missoula, MT
Posts: 2,668
Thanks: 305
Thanked 1,187 Times in 813 Posts
|
I live in the mountains of Montana and regularly drive all 3 possible types a most every day, Fwd, Rwd, and Awd. Rwd is really not ideal. Around town knowing I might have to chain up is a pain and slows me down considerably. Not I'm being safe slow down but the aggravating I can't drive all my normal streets or park where I need to slow down. The Fwd works much better but we still use good condition real studded snows to be able to get up our road everyday. The AWD is even better and has worn snow tires. It is some ways harder to drive the AWD as it can drift the back end (oversteer) where the Fwd will only plow the front end (understeer). The AWD can do both but the oversteer is what surprises people who aren't used to it. The Rwd can do both also assuming it's not just sitting there immobile. Around here a 2wd truck or SUV is not worth buying as the resale is much lower if not impossible. I had to ship my last 2wd pickup to Alabama to get it sold and still took a bigger hit then if I had just paid the $2000 more for 4wd in the first place. Rwd SUVs are even more difficult to get rid of as most are looking for 365 daily driver family rig. A 2wd pickup at least is still a good boat or camper hauler in the non winter months.
|
|
|
|