In line electric motor in drive shaft?

[Logic]

An electric motor built on/into your gearbox before the gearing is probably the best bet:
You keep the gearing, allowing you to get away with a cheaper smaller motor as you're keeping the gearbox anyway.

The engine would drag on the motor when the clutch is engaged but you get to drive with the main engine off and also get better/more regen.

The disadvantage is the constantly depressed clutch and constant turning of the clutch release bearing that is likely to wear is out way sooner time wise.
Also the other ancillaries on the engine belt stop working, as does your engine vacuum powered brake assist.
With EVs at the scrapyard nowadays you should be able to find electrically driven replacements for all these.

I would say that putting a gear that matches the gear teeth on the input and/or counter shaft on a motor and fitting/mounting it to the gearbox is likely the better cheaper option.
You might even be able to mount the motor direct to the end of the counter shat if the motor's rpms match. It all depends on your specific gearbox.
(You may have to mod the car's transmission tunnel some, somewhere to make space for the motor, but that's not a biggey)

(This shows the gearbox basics for those wondering)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCu9W9xNwtI

This shows cutting and welding engine crankcases etc to make a 2 cylinder from 2 one cylinders.
As similar modding to your gearbox would be required, it serves to show that cutting, welding and machining a gearbox like casing is pretty straight forward. Inspiration!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Lafg4XwL-Q

While a PM magnet motor is efficient it would 'drag' on the engine when not in use.
A motor with a DC rotor winding is cheaper and you can just cut power to the rotor for coasting (most efficient conservation of energy) and when you don't want to use it like if there's a fault somewhere.

Playing with the rotor voltage opens up all sorts of opportunities! (higher rpm ranges, settings to match controller/regen, etc)
So this cheaper motor option may end up being more efficient overall..?

[freebeard]

Two single-cylinders into a twin seems backwards. Emory Motorsports makes flat fours out of 911 sixes.

I don't know about the Haldex system. Is the driveshaft before or after the hydraulic coupling? If after it might make more sense to go with an altermotor on the ICE.

[Logic]

Originally Posted by freebeard

Two single-cylinders into a twin seems backwards. Emory Motorsports makes flat fours out of 911 sixes.

I don't know about the Haldex system. Is the driveshaft before or after the hydraulic coupling? If after it might make more sense to go with an altermotor on the ICE.

The video is simply to demonstrate that modding and machining aluminum casings is actually pretty easy, so modding a gearbox to accept input power from an electric motor isn't impossible.

ie: Supply electric motor power before the gearbox but after the clutch so that the engine can be disconnected from the motor by depressing the clutch, but you get to use a smaller motor thx to the gearbox. (you're keeping anyway. That's lighter etc)

This would provide more regen than wasting it turning the engine too AND allow you to operate in electric mode only.
But any ancillaries connect to the engine via the fanbelt wont be turning and need to be considered/modded, as does the vacuum assisted brake system.

I thought you were the one person who actually read (my) posts!?

[freebeard]

I thought you were the one person who actually read (my) posts!?

I buckled under the pressure when it got to the first video at #11. Was it after that?

Did I mention that I confuse easily?

Siameseing two transmission casings together is a long way from tapping onto the driveshaft. Any indication (OP?) of whether the hydraulic coupling transmits power one or two ways?

[Logic]

Originally Posted by freebeard

I buckled under the pressure when it got to the first video at #11. Was it after that?

Did I mention that I confuse easily?

Siameseing two transmission casings together is a long way from tapping onto the driveshaft. Any indication (OP?) of whether the hydraulic coupling transmits power one or two ways?

Well that video is just to give ideas as to where one might add (motor) power to a gearbox, but it does do a good job of explaining how they work and actually rely on friction not to grate.

And no; siamesing of casings isn't required.
That video simply illustrated the possibilities and that; just because there's a casing without holes/access,doesn't mean it cant be modded and sealed around a shaft etc to take power from a motor.
ie: "I don't see hole to stick the motor shaft through" isn't a good excuse!

Main Point/s:

• Motor on engine: you lose out on regen because engine 'drag' and can't run pure electric.
• Motor on driveshaft: You lose out on taking advantage of the gearbox (you are lugging around anyway) that enables the use of a light, small, higher rpm = more efficient motor, and you need to find space for a big motor.
• Motor ahead of gearbox: All the advantages, except your clutch release bearing is working a lot more ( a good place for BA test) and you ancillaries aren't 'turning'.

One last thing: Possibly a wound DC rotor wins out of Permanent Magnets for overall efficiency, as it gives your motor a 'clutch' (conservation of momentum/coasting is most efficient) and enables the variation of the magnetic force which gives you a wider motor rpm range amongst other things.
They are also a hell of a lot cheaper!