03-13-2013, 10:36 AM
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#41 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Ireland
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No just videos. Guess i should post a few pics ....
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Now, Cole, when you shift the gear and that little needle on the ammeter goes into the red and reads 2000 Amps, that's bad.
www.evbmw.com
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Today
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03-14-2013, 02:37 PM
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#42 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Knoxville TN
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If you don't mind me asking, how much is this conversion costing so far?
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03-15-2013, 01:41 PM
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#43 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Ireland
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Started trial fitting the instruments in the dash today. To my surprise the two JLD meters are a perfect fit under the radio. The clips even match up!
Bear32LB , so far i'd say its cost about 2k euros.
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Now, Cole, when you shift the gear and that little needle on the ammeter goes into the red and reads 2000 Amps, that's bad.
www.evbmw.com
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03-16-2013, 12:20 PM
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#44 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Ireland
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Pulled the exhaust and heat shields today. Finally able to measure the driveshaft length. Seems my gamble on the auto shaft being shorter was bang on. The manual is 1760mm and the auto is 1600mm so this lets me move the motor back well clear of the steering rack. With no exhaust the 'ol land yacht sounds more like a fishing trawler
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Now, Cole, when you shift the gear and that little needle on the ammeter goes into the red and reads 2000 Amps, that's bad.
www.evbmw.com
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04-21-2013, 05:03 AM
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#45 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
Join Date: Sep 2009
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Well folks the engine is out and the motor is in. To my surprise , the motor fitted in above the steering rack with about 1/8" to spare so no need for my plan to move back the drivetrain.
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Now, Cole, when you shift the gear and that little needle on the ammeter goes into the red and reads 2000 Amps, that's bad.
www.evbmw.com
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04-21-2013, 05:17 AM
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#46 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Ireland
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I have had a few requests for the arduino code I wrote for the crank signal so here it is :
http://www.e39ev.com/software/crank_code.zip
Please note this is very beta and I would ask that any modifications be reposted here for all.
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Now, Cole, when you shift the gear and that little needle on the ammeter goes into the red and reads 2000 Amps, that's bad.
www.evbmw.com
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The Following User Says Thank You to jackbauer For This Useful Post:
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05-09-2013, 04:27 PM
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#47 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
Join Date: Sep 2009
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Front battery box is in. Also done some work on the ecu sensors. Working well so far. Today ordered 4 C4DE 380uf 400v film caps for the controller.
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Now, Cole, when you shift the gear and that little needle on the ammeter goes into the red and reads 2000 Amps, that's bad.
www.evbmw.com
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The Following User Says Thank You to jackbauer For This Useful Post:
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05-10-2013, 04:33 AM
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#48 (permalink)
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VFAQman
Join Date: Jul 2008
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Just curious why you set the battery box right behind the condenser - would it not fit a bit further back, or are you counting on the airflow through the condenser section over the top of the battery box being enough?
(OK, looking at the last few seconds, setting it farther back would reduce it to an 8 or 9 cell box)
Did you consider tilting the box back?
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05-12-2013, 05:02 AM
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#49 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Ireland
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Yeh basically the location for the box was the only place that it would fit. Suspension parts etc in the way any further back. I don't think it will cause the aircon any issues.
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Now, Cole, when you shift the gear and that little needle on the ammeter goes into the red and reads 2000 Amps, that's bad.
www.evbmw.com
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05-13-2013, 11:26 AM
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#50 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Belgium
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Great project - again.
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Strayed to the Dark Diesel Side
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