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Old 08-21-2013, 11:09 PM   #51 (permalink)
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air box

i have a 2013 honda cr-z , and i remover the pipe before the air filter box and saw a mileage jump of 2 mpg, the air is still filtered. Not sure if its because of more air or if the air is warmer, hope this helps

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ps i am reposting this a few times so it gets out there

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Old 08-21-2013, 11:12 PM   #52 (permalink)
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probably just the warmer air, I did a similar mod with my car.

To check it, look at your air intake temp before and after the "mod" and see if there is much of a difference. Also note that the car computer might take a bit to adjust to the changes, so the mpg gain might be just your foot, or the computer might "self correct" later.
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Old 10-23-2013, 11:57 PM   #53 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aardvarcus View Post
I also mounted Michelin 205/65R16 Energy Saver A/S tires on my Celica to help with the gearing, removing some non LRR 205/50R16s. Went from 24" to 26.5", noticably higher gearing on takeoffs. I did not do ABA testing, but on my commute I immediately noticed a over 10% increase in MPG with no other changes made. Tanks went from 29min-32max to 34min-36max. Look between January and Febuary on my fuel log. Only downside is light rubbing at 100% steering lock (95% is fine, just not 100%). Also my car was so low to begin with raising it 1" helps with scraping.
I was just looking at my 2011 CRZ and trying to figure out how tall I could go with new tires, not so much for efficiency but its getting to be winter in MN and I want to buy the tallest snow tires that will fit. 205/65R16 sounded perfect on paper but when I got to looking under my front fenders I though "no way those will clear the bottom plate of the coil spring!" (sorry I don't know exactly what that base is called where the bottom of the coil on the strut sits).

It looks like there's only about a half inch of possible clearance and that's with my tires wore wayyyy down (less than 1/16th tread remaining). So how in the world did you fit 2 inch taller 205/65 ??? Am I missing something that this won't be an issue with my car?

I hope the OP still watches this thread....

Last edited by arudlang; 10-24-2013 at 12:51 AM..
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Old 10-24-2013, 12:00 PM   #54 (permalink)
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I downsized my tires width from 195/65r15 integrities to 185/65r15 Ecopias, off only 1% based on revs/mile but gained 3-5mpg
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Old 10-24-2013, 02:17 PM   #55 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arudlang View Post
I was just looking at my 2011 CRZ and trying to figure out how tall I could go with new tires, not so much for efficiency but its getting to be winter in MN and I want to buy the tallest snow tires that will fit. 205/65R16 sounded perfect on paper but when I got to looking under my front fenders I though "no way those will clear the bottom plate of the coil spring!" (sorry I don't know exactly what that base is called where the bottom of the coil on the strut sits).

It looks like there's only about a half inch of possible clearance and that's with my tires wore wayyyy down (less than 1/16th tread remaining). So how in the world did you fit 2 inch taller 205/65 ??? Am I missing something that this won't be an issue with my car?

I hope the OP still watches this thread....
I am not the original poster but you are quoting me about the 205/65R16s that I used on a Toyota Celica, so I will tell you that before I bought those tires I did extensive measuring up under the car, and checked my clearances to everything. I am not familiar with your car so you will have to measure it yourself to see what you can fit, which it looks like you have done.

Remember that upsizing the diameter from 24” to 26.5” only increases the radius by 1.25”, so I had to check that I had 1.25 inches everywhere. You have to check it with the wheels straight, at half lock and full lock both directions. This step is very important, don’t just check it with the wheels straight! Also don’t forget suspension travel.

I had very little clearance to my strut tower coil spring base, but since that moved with the tire on compression that did not matter much, as long as I had something I was good. Your suspension setup may be different so you will have to make your own judgment on that. I had to remove my plastic wheel well liners to fit the tires under the car. The funny thing is that my limiting factor of what I could run was more based off of the width of the tire combined with the offset of the wheel, which would move the tire forwards and backwards as you turned the wheel.

Oh, and as an update to my previous post I am no longer running the 205/65R16s. When the fronts were over halfway gone I went back with the biggest Michelin Energy Savers I could fit on 15” Prius wheels. I still get part of the gearing advantages with less of the disadvantages associated with running right on the edge of what will fit. My old ones were 205/65R16’s at 26.5” or 10% over, and I moved to 195/65R15’s which are 25” or 4% over. With the old ones I had issues with accidentally squealing the tires taking off which rapidly wore them down, the tires were hard on my clutch to feather out the clutch and not squeak them, the tires would hit the fender wells on a hard bump, the big wheels and big tires were heavy, etcetera.

The funny thing is that my MPGs roughly stayed the same or maybe went down 0.5MPG so it was between a 0-1.3% loss in MPG for much better drivability. It is very hard to tell differences that small just using weekly tanks without A-B testing. I gained efficiency from the weight (minus 40lbs rotating weight)/aero savings(3/4” lower car, new aerodynamic wheels) , but lost efficiency on running higher RPMs (+200 RPMs). I can’t complain about the old tires through, I saved enough fuel when I had them to more than offset the purchase price.

Note that I still am on 4% oversized tires from stock and still a believer in them until I can regear my transaxle, but my suggestion is to not run the absolute biggest thing you can cram under there, leave yourself some wiggle room and consider the other factors that your tire selection impacts, such as rim selection, weight, ride height, etcetera.
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Old 10-24-2013, 02:39 PM   #56 (permalink)
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I appreciate the advice aardvarcus. I probably should just buy some 205/55R16s that are known to fit fine on the car with stock rims. I am itching to go 205/60 to gain that .8 inches of clearance I would gain over the 205/55. I want to combine that with the 1 inch gain I got from shoving rubber coil booster blocks into the coil springs for a total of a couple inches more clearance for deep snow (live in northern MN, this low rider gets high centered very easily having a little less than 5 inches clearance stock). It will be interesting to see how much mpg I lose, but I'm willing to drop my winter mpg average in trade for being actually able to drive the car at all when it snows.

Looking at how close my bald 195/55 come to the coil base plate I am just amazed the OP didn't have rubbing issues with 205/65. Seems like... Maybe with a one inch spacer on the hub... Or bending that plate up out of the way (lol!) I mean seriously, that's over +2 inches diameter from stock!
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Old 10-25-2013, 12:36 AM   #57 (permalink)
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As posted elsewhere, lower is not always more aerodynamic.
Depending on the shape of the bottom of the vehicle, higher can be just as good.


It seems the anecdotal evidence is mixed, and some of the gains reported may be due to odometer offsets due to the tire sizes as not everyone indicated they compensated/adjusted for that.

It's possible that small size changes fall within the mean error of testing compared to the changes of putting on new tires which obviously have a significant effect themselves.
Unless someone buys new tires of the same type in both old and larger sizes, and mounted them on identical sets of rims, this question may be difficult to answer. And even then we have to assume the tires are relatively equal.
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Old 10-25-2013, 08:50 AM   #58 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arudlang View Post
I appreciate the advice aardvarcus. I probably should just buy some 205/55R16s that are known to fit fine on the car with stock rims. I am itching to go 205/60 to gain that .8 inches of clearance I would gain over the 205/55. I want to combine that with the 1 inch gain I got from shoving rubber coil booster blocks into the coil springs for a total of a couple inches more clearance for deep snow (live in northern MN, this low rider gets high centered very easily having a little less than 5 inches clearance stock). It will be interesting to see how much mpg I lose, but I'm willing to drop my winter mpg average in trade for being actually able to drive the car at all when it snows.

Looking at how close my bald 195/55 come to the coil base plate I am just amazed the OP didn't have rubbing issues with 205/65. Seems like... Maybe with a one inch spacer on the hub... Or bending that plate up out of the way (lol!) I mean seriously, that's over +2 inches diameter from stock!
Another thing to consider about why another person can fit something you can't is that different wheels have different offsets, which may bring the tire in or out more. Even OEM steel wheels many times differ in offset from OEM alloys.

The only other thing to watch out for is that using your spacer doesn't throw off your CV shaft angles too much and wear out your front end too fast. You will also need an alignment after you put them in.

Most people prefer tall and skinny tires for use in the snow, so the car "cuts through" instead of "floating across." I have attached a table which shows you the different common size combinations for one brand of snow tires. (Michelin X-Ice 3)

I like the 205/60R16 as well since it is skinnier as well as taller, but tape measures don't lie if it doesn't look like it fits I would shy away. Another through, some manufacturers tires are taller than others for the same size, what brand of tire is on the car now? Maybe what you have now is taller than you think.
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Old 01-22-2014, 11:17 AM   #59 (permalink)
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Larger tires comment

It seems to me that the author's use of the Scan Gauge to correct for speed and distance speedometer/odometer errors introduced by the tire diameter change is a reasonably accurate way to address this problem. Many commenters have gotten 'out in the weeds' discussing effect of the diameter changes.

It is expensive and difficult for an individual tester to control for the differences in rolling resistance introduced by using different brand tires with different designs.

I observe that even when using substantially similar diameter tires (different brands, too) when switching to winter tires each year, that my mileage is negatively affected beyond that caused by long warm ups and colder temperatures.

To my knowledge the tire industry has yet to develop an industry-wide standard and test for rolling resistance.
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Old 01-22-2014, 02:45 PM   #60 (permalink)
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I cant read everything here rite now

But if you get too High of final drive ratio for engine optimum torque curve then you will have a constantly loaded engine.
The engine management system wont be happy untill it hits a preprogrammed PV value to do its thing closing valves and adjusting fuel air mixtures etc.
For ya old schoolers the vaccume would remain too high to close egr etc.
This changes for nearly every application and even sometime per car.
An effect of this many people notice is from a restricted exhaust.
Where the engine controls will attempt to lean out the system to correct for a abnormally rich system.
It effectivly causes persons foot to go further into go pedal and resulting in ever richening system till key is shut off or computers give up trying to correct for the probblem placing system into a limp mode or clear flood fuel mode.
Where upon you see check engine or call tow truck LOL.
waiting 15 minutes or so will usually allow you to limp home if you dont try to make it run like there is no probblems again.
OK sorry so long I wanted everyone to understand without giving me 200 corrections about specifics.

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