Towing?

[Christ]

Originally Posted by ksa8907

Id like to add that, anything can pull anything, but not everything can stop anything. Once saw a ranger pulling a 32ft flat trailer of round hay bales.... id sure hate to be in front of that.

To an extent, I'd agree... but the issue isn't so much that you can't stop it, it's at what speed you can no longer stop it. I've pulled in excess of 25 ton (equipment) with some vehicles that you'd never think would be able to get it moving, let alone stop it, but I do it between farms on back roads and such. I'd never do that on well traveled public roads, personally, but I understand how towing works enough to use some good sense in doing so.

If you're going 5MPH, you can pretty much stop about anything you'd be able to get started moving with most vehicles. The idea is to not overheat your brakes and plan the move according to what you have at your disposal.

When I'm towing really heavy loads, I try not to use the brakes unless I absolutely have to, and I'm always moving at low speeds (under 10MPH for most equipment moves). The further outside the "safe" recommendation you get, the more prudent it is to operate the load proactively instead of reactively. Reactive driving could really get someone/something hurt with quickness.

[Ryland]

The original question tho is about towing a 2,000 pound trailer and from the sounds of it, it's going to be a bit lighter then that even, most states require passenger cars that are towing trailers over 3,000 pounds to have trailer brakes, New Mexico is included in that 3,000 pounds needing trailer brakes, but for a 2,000 pound trailer trailer brakes are not required, however it sounds like you are going to put a lot of miles on while towing it so they might be a good idea if you can get them.

According to all of the sources I can find a 2,000 pound trailer should be within the safe and legal limit for anything that you can get a class 1 hitch for, class 1 being the type of hitch that is sold for compact cars and should be legal in all states, sub compact cars like the Smart car, Scion IQ, Geo Metro and a few others are not a good choice for towing a small trailer.

[TheNewGirl]

Diesel? What about the Volkswagen Jetta? 1985 ford escort or 1985 mercury lynx? What vehicle would you guys recommend?

[IsaacCarlson]

Maybe look for something like a hatchback so the air will flow onto the trailer and not into it.

[Miller88]

TDI swap on a ranger?

A car may not be the best solution for this. My focus can pull around 45MPG at 55MPH. Towing a 2000 pound trailer, I wouldn't expect it to get more than 25-30 ... especially if it was enclosed.

[Ryland]

Originally Posted by TheNewGirl

Diesel? What about the Volkswagen Jetta? 1985 ford escort or 1985 mercury lynx? What vehicle would you guys recommend?

The Ford diesels are not very common around here, not sure if they had the same problems as other American made diesels did of the '70's and '80's or if they were just rare and rusted out quickly.

The Volkswagen Jetta is a heavier car then the golf and it has the same engine and brakes, it also has a greater distance between the rear bumper and the rear axle so it will be less stable while towing.

When I've towed with my old Civic, my mileage did drop from around 47-48 down to 40mpg and found driving my parents Ford Ranger truck to have about the same stopping distance and acceleration while towing as the civic does, so a TDI that has a more powerful engine should be even better.

[slowmover]

Figure a gas powered vehicle will lose about 30-40% from steady state solo mpg when towing. But a good combination -- trailer & tow vehicle -- ought to do better than this.

Choosing the trailer first is smart. The tow vehicle is not nearly so important a question to answer.

What is the best vehicle to tow a 2000 pound trailer based on mpg and price (used)? Looking to get about 40 mpg and under $7k. Transmission and body style are not factors. Thanks!

Alto 1713

What is best really fits what is best when solo. Two pax is a different load than four pax. A suitcase or two is different than a professional photographer carrying a complete suite of equipment. Etc.

Reliability and ease-of-service on a cheap used car mean more than the last few mpg. Here, as above, an owner with mechanical aptitude + tools is in a different place than an owner dependent on garages for all service. Again, etc.

Towing does put a strain on a vehicle. New, high quality tires and best brake performance are mandatory, IMO. Same for steering control: zero slop, even it means complete rebuild. Suspension = same.

Expect that all scheduled maintenance must be performed. New battery and primary cabling, etc. Filters, hoses, belts, fluids all need to be new. All new lamps, headlamp housings. Again, etc.

The best vehicle for the proposed price is one that is a good candidate for a complete go-through. Cosmetic condition or lack of radio, etc, is irrelevant by comparison. Running down the highway means reliability on a finely calibrated scale.

A TEKONSHA Prodigy P3 brake controller is a minimum. Also need best quality trailer wiring harness installed in tow vehicle ( etrailer (800)298-8924).

McKesh Towing mirrors, too.

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