WPC Metal Treatment/Reduced Friction

[curiosity]

Originally Posted by Davo53209@yahoo.com

So what you're saying is that for the biggest bang for my buck would be to have the cylinder walls treated.

The greatest amount of friction in an engine occurs between the piston and bore (40~50%)

If you're looking for a simple way to reduce friction try coating with XcelPlus. The Combustion Chamber Treatment (aka 2-Stroke) is easy to apply, extremely durable and low friction.

:-)

[Logic]

I'm not going to link all the research on Boric Acid basically reconditioning old worn engines here.
It was 'invented' by Argon National Labs if you want to look up all the research.

Basically:
It does NOT do anything to to 'mod' the oil. It just forms an emulsion that is carried around to all the bearing surfaces and pistons, rings and cylinders etc where it reacts with the metal/s to form an extremely slippery ~0.5 micron layer.
So in a bearing or piston you 'lose' 2 microns of wear.
( Crazy slippery! Like 70X more slippery than steel-oil-steel IIRC)

The bottom layer is a ceramic with 85% the hardness of diamond, with the subsequent layers are akin to a deck of micro sized playing cards easily sliding over each other.

You want around 20% by weight of the oil of Boric oxide/acid. (As Boric Oxide absorbs moisture out the air turning it into acid they are basically the same thing.
NB: Boric Acid/Oxide NOT!!! Boracic etc which is another chemical all-together..!!

You want to add this powder to around std coffee mug of boiling water.
Pre heat the cup with boiling water; pour that water out and then add more boiling water before stirring in the powder:
The hotter the water; the more of the Boric will dissolve in it, but you wont get it all dissolved and that's fine as long as you get most of the undissolved powder into the oil.

Add that to the engine after making sure the oil level is at or just below full and the engine is hot, then run the engine immediately.

After around 10 minutes you will notice/feel the difference and be amazed by the 'better than newness' and economy etc of the engine.
It will also swing over on the starter much faster/easier.

Leave it in for a day or so of use, during which time it will get in under any sludge, loosening it, then change the oil and filter.
You can add a tiny bit of said mixture to the new oil if you like but basically the engine is good for around 100 000 km before needing another treatment.

NB!!!
That VWs have a very fine sieve on the oil pump pickup and are thus blocked by the loosened sludge..!
I haven't had an issue with any other make of vehicle.

NB that most gearboxes rely on the friction of the syncro rings to get your gears spinning at the same speed to avoid grating while changing, so be careful there.
Similarly; limited slip differentials become way less limited if you treat them. Great for std diffs and mpg and all, but...

NB That you DO NOT want to add this stuff to any engine that is not thoroughly run in.
I'd say at least 30 000 km on the clock with some spirited driving in the mix.