100+ hypermiling / ecodriving tips & tactics

[gdubsr]

I may have just overlooked it, but I didn't see any mention of keeping the finish on your vehicle clean and slick for better fuel miledge. The air passes around your vehicle with less drag when it's clean.
I'm a new member and I could have missed it being mentioned.

[SVOboy]

Originally Posted by gdubsr

I may have just overlooked it, but I didn't see any mention of keeping the finish on your vehicle clean and slick for better fuel miledge. The air passes around your vehicle with less drag when it's clean.
I'm a new member and I could have missed it being mentioned.

I've heard many people say this isn't necessarily the case, much in the same way the dimples on a golfball improve aerodynamics versus smooth balls.

Welcome to ecomodder!

[Daox]

Friction drag is quite small compared to pressure drag on a vehicle. So, cleaning your car really doesn't do anything that you'll notice gas mileage wise.

Welcome to the site.

[i_am_socket]

Being from Jersey and working in a suburb of NY (I can count windows in midtown on my drive in) I call shenanigans on your "doesn't work around here" theory. You're just not trying Unless you only drive through the Bronx and Queens during rush hour, the traffic isn't that bad on that side of the island.

[COMP]

Originally Posted by Yuri4x4

I disagree with the vacuum boosted brakes comment. If you shut your car completely off, you still have vacuum assist for a few pedal pushes. Those are FREE. In fact, you can also speculate that it MAY be BETTER to use that vacuum before re-starting your engine, possibly reducing resistance inside the engine. ...if you've ever had to turn a crankshaft by hand to find Top Dead Center, was it easier to turn the crankshaft with a sealed-up block, or did you pull the spark plugs first? Understand my thought process now?

there is a one-way check valve to the booster ,,,engine off NO vac.

[Loory]

Awsome list of tips and tricks, thank you Ecomodder.

About 101 Minimize accessory loads
Minimize use of electrical and mechanical accessory loads when safe and/or practical (lights, defrost, blower, electric heated seats, dvd players/screens, heated mirrors, etc).

I systematicaly remove my foot from the brake pedal when waiting for the stoplight to turn green or if the car is still moving i pull the hand brake a little in order to turn off the brake lights, i don't know how many watts they pull (maybe 50 watts together) but it's a load so why not.

Thanks basjoos for the injector pulse widths info. of your SuperMID.

[LostCause]

Originally Posted by Yuri4x4

I disagree with the vacuum boosted brakes comment. If you shut your car completely off, you still have vacuum assist for a few pedal pushes. Those are FREE. In fact, you can also speculate that it MAY be BETTER to use that vacuum before re-starting your engine, possibly reducing resistance inside the engine...

They aren't free because the next time you start your car, the engine will have to create a new vacuum in the brake booster.

If the booster has no vacuum, then the sealed engine condition you describe would be more applicable. Every intake stroke during start-up will be doing the work of creating vacuum. If the booster has vacuum, then the intake stroke will not do work as the booster pressure will stay constant.

We are counting minute fractions of a penny saved here, but engine vacuum will never be free.

- LostCause

[i_am_socket]

Nature abhors a vacuum, that's why it's mostly covered in dirt ;-)

[jonr]

Definitely sort them in order of importance to a typical driver.

[groar]

From this very good 100+ tips, here are the one I found the most useful and I talk about when talking about ecodriving/hypermiling :

The top 3 before getting into the car :

• Join a fuel economy forum : which permitted me to learn a lot of things
• Track your fuel consumption : which will permit me to see my improvements and will make me want to improve more, and more, and more...
• Take the road less traveled : not only I won gas, but also time and happiness :-)

The top 3 once I'm inside car :

• Constant throttle position cruising : I'm even releasing the accelerator until the car looses a small speed. At this point if I release more the accelerator I know I will loose much more speed, so I'm at a "best efficiency" point for current conditions.
• "Drive without brakes" (DWB) : currently I'm coasting in "deceleration fuel cut-off" mode (in gear, above a certain engine RPM : 1250 for my megane)
• Manual transmission, cruise in high gear : I'm trying to keep my engine near the best torque's RPM. For my megane the best torque is at 2000rpm, so I gear-up at 2250rpm and when limited at 90km/h I run at 85km/h which matches 2000rpm.

A few things I will try to improve :

• Reduce speed : in city I'm trying to drive at speed limit while I'm trying to drive at 5-10% under out of city. This is certainly a place where I can still improve myself.
• Use a fuel consumption display : I may by a SG, but I'm not sure it's compatible with my car and European resellers doesn't (want to) know.

I may also try to do a few ecomodding, such as grille block and rear wheel skirts, but I have to convince more than me before to be allowed to do it...

Thanks a lot to all who are building that site day after day.

Life long and prosper ;-)

Denis.