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Old 07-06-2009, 12:51 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Lack of fuel consumption feedback also complicates things. Consistency and A-B-A testing pretty much goes out the window when it takes a tankful to see the results.

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Old 07-06-2009, 08:12 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by derangedhermit View Post
Good point. tcmb has 14 and 15 fronts, and 45 and 39 rears. He has tried:
45/14=3.21
45/15=3.00
39/15=2.60

He could try:
39/14=2.79
for free, getting back a little torque, at an unknown cost (if any) in mpg.

A front sprocket is $10-$15. If a 16T will fit on the bike, he can try 39/16=2.44. Since he is rarely going over 1/2 throttle with 2.60, there's a good chance he will find it OK.
The main reason i went with a 2.60 final drive is because most of my driving is on the highway. With the 2.60, the bike almost bogs from a stop going into first gear. I have to release the clutch a little slower than usual. Cruising on the highway, it feels like the bare minimum gearing (trust me, its a drastic reduction in acceleration from stock) but just enough. Anything lower would be detrimental. Also, on this bike 16t front sprockets require grinding modification to the housing for it to fit. 2.60 feels just right for my purpose.
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Old 07-09-2009, 07:15 PM   #43 (permalink)
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How safe is it to EOC on a motorcycle? I rarely/never ride them so I don't know if the mechanics are the same, please enlighten me.

Also, can you clutch start the engine when it is off and you are moving?
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Old 07-09-2009, 07:39 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sulfuric View Post
How safe is it to EOC on a motorcycle? I rarely/never ride them so I don't know if the mechanics are the same, please enlighten me.

Also, can you clutch start the engine when it is off and you are moving?
Its probably more safe than it is in a car. It has a kill switch from the factory and a push button electric starter.... both are right next to eachother on the right handlebar. I can initiate both actions very quickly.... in fact, to start that bike i just have to tap the starter button in most cases.

"Pop" starting a bike works just like it does in a car. Just let out the clutch in a higher gear and vwahla.
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Old 07-09-2009, 08:17 PM   #45 (permalink)
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manual steering and manual brakes on a bike too. You don't have to yank on the wheel or stomp harder on the pedal when the engine is stopped.
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Old 07-09-2009, 08:56 PM   #46 (permalink)
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Bryan and dcb beat me too it, but...
on a motorcycle it does not affect the handling or braking in any way what so ever if the engine is off, and its easy to do since there is a built in kill switch and push button starter.

However!
They also have tiny little batteries, and if you try it in the city, where you are coasting to a complete stop and have to use the starter, you can kill it very quick. I learned this the hard way. Spent a few weeks running and jumping on to get it started until I got around to replacing the battery.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Piwoslaw View Post
A few months ago I returned home just as my neighbor pulled into his driveway. It was cold (around freezing) with some rain and sleet, and he yells to me: You rode your bike? In this weather?!?

So the other day we both returned home at the same time again, only now the weather is warm, sunny, with no wind. And I yell to him: You took the car? In this weather?!?
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Old 07-09-2009, 11:37 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JacobAziza View Post
Bryan and dcb beat me too it, but...
on a motorcycle it does not affect the handling or braking in any way what so ever if the engine is off, and its easy to do since there is a built in kill switch and push button starter.

However!
They also have tiny little batteries, and if you try it in the city, where you are coasting to a complete stop and have to use the starter, you can kill it very quick. I learned this the hard way. Spent a few weeks running and jumping on to get it started until I got around to replacing the battery.
Deep Cycle bike battery... LOL.

I have a friend who has a few bikes... one is kick/electric, one is kick only, and one is electric only.

The kick/electric, he can't roll it over by hand, and it takes a hell of a kick to start it, but the starter rolls it over like nobody's business.

The straight electric, will not start if you're moving (Not sure why, it never has), but you can clutch it, roll it about 2 feet clutched in gear, "pop" the clutch and pull it back in, and it will start.

The kick only, you can't roll-start unless you run... it's not electric, with no provisions for it (unless you tie it into the chain), and it's a high-compression engine, not sure about size, but it's a PITA to kick over. You bring it up to compression, let it bleed off, then jump and DON'T MISS.

Clutch starting any of those bikes (except the straight electric) can make it get squirrelly really fast if you're not ready for it, or if you're going too fast for the gear.
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Old 07-10-2009, 01:56 AM   #48 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JacobAziza View Post
Bryan and dcb beat me too it, but...
on a motorcycle it does not affect the handling or braking in any way what so ever if the engine is off, and its easy to do since there is a built in kill switch and push button starter.

However!
They also have tiny little batteries, and if you try it in the city, where you are coasting to a complete stop and have to use the starter, you can kill it very quick. I learned this the hard way. Spent a few weeks running and jumping on to get it started until I got around to replacing the battery.
Ironically enough, i EOC and use the starter ALOT and i dont really experience battery power issues with my ninja.
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Doing my part to reduce dependence on OIL
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And enjoying it!

If you have to use your brakes, you are driving too fast!

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Old 07-10-2009, 02:10 AM   #49 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theycallmeebryan View Post
Ironically enough, i EOC and use the starter ALOT and i dont really experience battery power issues with my ninja.
hmm...
then maybe it was because I took my ex's old battery when she replaced hers because it was doing better than my old one was at the time?
I suppose it could have been a factor.

I'll see how my new, larger, AGM battery does.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Piwoslaw View Post
A few months ago I returned home just as my neighbor pulled into his driveway. It was cold (around freezing) with some rain and sleet, and he yells to me: You rode your bike? In this weather?!?

So the other day we both returned home at the same time again, only now the weather is warm, sunny, with no wind. And I yell to him: You took the car? In this weather?!?
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Old 07-11-2009, 01:21 PM   #50 (permalink)
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2003 Ninja EX250 - '03 Kawasaki Ninja EX250
90 day: 78.57 mpg (US)

Saturn - '99 Saturn SL1 Base
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Tank ending on 07-10-2009: 95.9 mpg!

I did an experiment on this tank. I had been experiencing lower back pain from tucking down alot. On this tank, i sat up comfortably and never crouched and I still was able to acheive over 90mpg. It appears that 55mph is a sweet spot as far as aerodynamics go. Overall, I am very happy that i was able to acheive this number without crouching. Further tanks will confirm the success of EOC and 55mph maximum cruising on motorcycles (any motor vehicle for that matter).

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Doing my part to reduce congestion
And enjoying it!

If you have to use your brakes, you are driving too fast!

My 101.5 MPG 2003 Kawasaki Ninja 250




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