1994 Ford F150

[Execut1ve]

Originally Posted by Frank Lee

From #11: If you do the things I mentioned, the temps will end up right where you want them to be.

so.... why are those particular temps the ones I want? cleanspeed answered it pretty well, thanks

[Frank Lee]

I must not have been clear, the engine is MAF not MAP. As far as exhaust I'm running no cats, downpipes into a y-pipe into a muffler to exit in front of the passenger rear wheel. Emission stuff (smog pump/thermactor system) has been removed from the engine as well.

Emission stuff is good stuff to have!

Mine still has the complete factory system. If/when it needs replacement, the same stuff is going back in- or as close to it as I can get.

FE isn't my only motivation for the steering conversion. These trucks are notorious for loud/inefficient power steering pumps, and I'm tired of hearing that pump whine. Also there is a lot of play in the steering, no doubt due to a worn gearbox, so there's a good chance swapping in a new gearbox will eliminate that problem.

Mine still has the original steering pump- no whine. They whine if low on fluid; often topping up the fluid fixes the whine but if it doesn't, it was let go too long and the pump got damaged (they are astonishingly stout though!).

My experience is that play in the steering is due to tie rod ends first, then other suspension joints, then steering box. You are going to want the best alignment you can have to max out fe and tire life.

[Execut1ve]

If you live in a state that doesn't require an emission check, as I do, the emission stuff is nothing but a waste of fuel. I had the engine out of the truck to do rear main seal/that other stuff so I cleaned all taht crap out while it was easily accessible.

one of the first things I did when I got possession of the truck was to change all the fluids and make sure they were all at the proper levels. the pump has fluid, I have no problem believing it was neglected earlier in its life. Also I know for a fact that every other component in the steering system is adjusted to proper spec, with the possible exception of the alignment, where I have a little extra positive camber, but that's irrelevant because there was still play in the steering when the truck was in perfect alignment before I installed the larger springs in front.

[cleanspeed1]

Originally Posted by Execut1ve

so.... why are those particular temps the ones I want? cleanspeed answered it pretty well, thanks

With the stock programming in your ECM, the computer needs to see certain coolant temperatures so that it can calibrate the fuel / air mixture properly for mileage and emissions reasons. You start making changes to the system without a programming change, things get off and performance or mileage suffers.

[Frank Lee]

Originally Posted by Execut1ve

so.... why are those particular temps the ones I want? cleanspeed answered it pretty well, thanks

You are not seeking drag racing performance so you definitely don't want it colder than stock. You do not want it to overheat and boil over so, if you do nothing else a hotter stat could perhaps help. BUT if you do the grille block, fan delete, and engine blanket it will get warmer, get warmer faster, and retain heat much longer anyway.

If you grille block leave an opening for the transmission cooler.

[Frank Lee]

If you live in a state that doesn't require an emission check, as I do, the emission stuff is nothing but a waste of fuel. I had the engine out of the truck to do rear main seal/that other stuff so I cleaned all taht crap out while it was easily accessible.

That is old-school thinking ('60s-'80s- pre EFI) no longer true, and not true on our trucks!!!

one of the first things I did when I got possession of the truck was to change all the fluids and make sure they were all at the proper levels. the pump has fluid, I have no problem believing it was neglected earlier in its life. Also I know for a fact that every other component in the steering system is adjusted to proper spec, with the possible exception of the alignment, where I have a little extra positive camber, but that's irrelevant because there was still play in the steering when the truck was in perfect alignment before I installed the larger springs in front.

Oh. I have over 100,000 miles on mine and the only non-original front end parts are the shock absorbers and the tie rod ends.

I did replace a whining pump on a Tempo once. A cheap junkyard unit fixed 'er all up and it cost very little.

There are no synthetic fluids in mine. It is due for axle and trans lube changes though. But, still, I don't see anyone beating my fe with my truck as stock as it is AND mine only gets used when it's working harder than commuting. I know basjoos gets better with his F150 but it's a newer style with different mechanicals; and of course some of the diesels are doing better.

[Execut1ve]

Originally Posted by Frank Lee

That is old-school thinking ('60s-'80s- pre EFI) no longer true, and not true on our trucks!!!

I don't agree... the air pump is driven by the belt. that takes energy. air pump is removed, loss is gone. If emissions truly mean nothing, as they do in OH, then the emission control system is nothing but a waste of fuel and/or power

What engine is in your truck? what is your gearing? auto trans I assume? 4wd? are our trucks identical?

[Frank Lee]

I dunno. I think we compared all that the first time you posted? It's all there in my EM garage listing.

Emissions DON'T mean nothing. Put the air pump belt on and log fe. Take it off and log fe. Bet you can't tell the difference. Emission controls are now pretty integral with the programming of the entire engine function. They work and I'm not aware of air pumps or cats consuming noticeable- barely parasitic- amounts of power or causing any fe drop vs not having them. Pre-efi emission controls were not as good, and they were a new thing for mechanics/home repair guys to deal with, and those guys did not like new, complicated, fussy things.

More on stat temps: the guys that want colder stats are the ones using their stock engine's work capacity near the upper limit- hard work, hot outside temps, and/or modified engines. Engines modded for more power generate more heat; too much more heat and cooling becomes an issue. Our problem is opposite: we are underutilizing our engines and they loaf along too cold for optimal fe.

[Execut1ve]

I'm sure at the speeds I'm driving the cats (when they work properly) don't have any detrimental effect. Emission controls are now pretty integral with engine function... I agree, but this truck isn't now, it's 1994. The only emissions stuff the computer cares about is whether the thermactor valves are operating correctly or not... which they are, they just don't connect to anything but capped vacuum lines. yeah I'm sure the parasitic drag of the air pump/pulley is small, but it isn't zero.

TBH I was suspicious of the thermostat thing from the beginning... if it isn't too involved to replace just that I'll do it sometime, they aren't expensive

[Execut1ve]

Comparison of our trucks:
________________Yours_____________________________ ______Mine
4wd:____________yes_______________________________ ______yes
cab:____________x-cab___________________________________reg cab
bed:____________shortbox__________________________ _______long bed
odometer:_______over 100,000 mi___________________________~155k mi
wheels:__________Heavier and wider aftermarket wheels_________stock
tires:___________255/70R15 Daytona SR tires_________________235/75R15
transmission:_____E40D____________________________ ________4R70W
1st_____________2.71______________________________ _______2.84
2nd_____________1.54______________________________ ______1.55
3rd_____________1.00______________________________ _______1.00
4th_____________0.71______________________________ _______0.70
axle ratio:_______3.31_________________________________ ____3.55

The only real differences I see are the body styles, wheels/tires and axle gearing... I also wonder what your city/highway driving looks like