19bonestock88’s commuter bike BUILD: replacing the “Green Line”

[Grant-53]

By my calculations the aero shell should curve to just below the knee when the pedal is at the bottom position.

[19bonestock88]

Got any pics of such a shell? I was thinking of a big fairing that enclosed the front wheel (but attached to the frame)...

I also ran across a kit that with a little work could adapt a small two cycle engine to provide power assistance to my bike... since I already have the engine/clutch in storage I considered it... for $20 I don’t see how I could go too far wrong (other than burning gasoline to take my bike to work)

[Grant-53]

I have been frustrated trying to move my photos to Google pictures. I will keep trying. In the mean time I set up an email account endlesstailwinds@gmail.com for anyone interested in my photos and drawings.

This is similar to mine.

[Grant-53]

This is rather boxy but shows the concept of integrating a nose piece, side panels, and a tail section.

[19bonestock88]

Referring to the second pic, was it made for purpose of keeping the wind off you, or for streamlining? The primary goal of my streamlining efforts on my bike is to go faster/shave time off my commute, with cold air protection a close second...

[Grant-53]

The grey fairings are not very aerodynamic. An aero shell would be a 3:1 aspect body with a Kamm tail.

[Grant-53]

Combine these two and take about 8-10 inches from the tail to help with cross wind stability.

[19bonestock88]

Well as it turns out the 25cc engine I had kicking around didn’t have its own centrifugal clutch so I can’t use it on the bike, but at least I got to teach my wife a little about small two cycle engines... need to bring the bike to my new home(just moved this past weekend) and likely work on better lights for now...

[Grant-53]

A centrifugal clutch is normally a bolt on item often found in a hardware store. My engine is a 34 cc chain saw engine with only a knurled shaft for friction. It uses a brake lever and cable to lift it off the tire. A twist throttle control could be awkward on drop handle bars. Lights are most important in any case. The latest F/R light set I bought has USB charging plugs. I paid $30 at Target. For marker lights on the body shell I use red and amber units from the auto store. I swap out the 12v bulbs for LEDs that match the power supply I choose.

[19bonestock88]

I was planning on mounting a sprocket on the other side of my hub and doing a chain drive...

I considered using my other bike frame and attaching a 50:1 planetary gearbox to the engine and driving the crankset directly, which would allow use of the bike gears(minus pedals of course)