2002 Jeep Wrangler used for work need ideas.

[Frank Lee]

"Handling deficit"? In a Jeep? LOL

[comptiger5000]

They don't handle that badly. Mostly, it'll just tend to understeer when making tight corners from a stop (under throttle) in heavy rain or snow if running FWD. Keep in mind, he's in Washington, so in the winter, he probably needs 4wd anyway. Having such a short wheelbase, TJs aren't terribly stable direction-wise in the snow. Locked driveshafts in 4wd helps that a bit.

[YukonCornelius]

It's interesting that the base curb weight was relevant when you were promoting the XJ but the TJ was exempt. You are right though, the TJ can be much heavier. The max TJ curb weight is 3800lbs, this is a automatic, air conditioned, hard top(150lbs), full doors, with largest factory wheels/tires, and stereo with factory subwoofer ect. Weight aside, the real reason anyone should consider going from a TJ to an XJ is because you'll be able to buy a XJ with only half the money you sold your TJ for.

comptiger, you wouldn't happen to be the guy on youtube with the crazy videos of a black 5.9 zj?

Also, I personally would not fear running in FWD in a TJ for a long period of time. If you're someone who is on ecomodder trying to get the max MPG possible you're likely not going to be putting real stress on the drivetrain while trying to drive lightly to save gas. Yes you're putting miles on the chain, but these chains usually take a solid 50,000 miles of use. And that's going by miles in conditions requiring 4wd, which often times won't be as pleasant as going from mailbox to mailbox. As would be the case here.

My girlfriend has a 97 TJ, I'll have to see if she will let me test on her Jeep. I'd like to see what it really picks up.

Originally Posted by comptiger5000

^ BAD idea. With the exception of the Rubicon, the front diff and axle shafts are noticeably weaker than the rear. If you want the same benefit, pull the front shaft and leave it in 2wd. It'll still drop the rotating weight a bit. It really can't do much, as both diffs and such are still spinning. Lockout hubs for the front would help a bit more.

As far as weight, you're right that an early base model TJ with a soft top, 4 cylinder and a 5 speed is just under 3100 pounds. However, that's with the smallest stock tires available, and no options. Most are a decent bit heavier, considering that weight doesn't even include having a stereo. Pretty much any 4 cylinder TJ you find out there (most had at least some options) will be 3300 - 3500 lbs, with the 6 cylinders around 3400 - 3700 lbs. Hard tops add weight too.

[comptiger5000]

True, in gentle driving, it will probably be fine for a while. However, keep in mind, running in FWD rather than RWD (with the front shaft out) doesn't matter as far as MPG.

However, adding lockable front hubs, or pulling the front axle shafts (I don't remember if you'd have to pull the spider gears to do that) would help more, as you wouldn't be spinning 2 diffs all the time. Pulling 1 driveshaft will help a little around town, due to reduced rotating weight. On the highway, it shouldn't do enough to notice a difference (driveline drag and rolling resistance is unchanged).

And no, those crazy videos on youtube aren't me. Mine's mostly stock, and as most of my friends will attest to, I drive fairly slow (rarely do more than 60 on the highway), and DWB like crazy.

[baldlobo]

first of all removing the rear drive shaft is a bad idea, ever heard of a slip yoke(think draining all the transfer case fluid out, say bye bye to tc) unless you feel like installing an sye kit.

hub locks might work.

i'd try a grill block, remove wipers(unless needed), change mirrors, hard top(not soft top; cd changes between the two), gas cap door maybe, remove the side steps, cover in the plastic fender wells; the expensive part is underneath belly up skid might help, custom gas tank it hangs way too low, someway to smooth the airflow from the front to the skid then back from the skid to the gas tank, section/drop the back of the hard top(maybe)

and too the people guessing on the d30 it's in 200-250lbs range fully dressed, the driveshaft is about 20lbs probably more knowing chrysler and the transfer case is around 75lbs dry

[comptiger5000]

On the TJ, the case should be an external slip yoke for the rear shaft, so it wouldn't lose any fluid. 200+ lbs sounds right for the front axle, but keep in mind, the empty beam axle that replaces it in a 2wd setup is still easily 100lbs.

[Ratrod]

I sold the Jeep after I bought a used 1997 Subaru Legacy 2.2 AWD RHD. I get way beeter fuel economy delivering mail. I purchased the new Scan Guage e and found that the average shows either too high or too low.