The 40MPG Crown Victoria Challenge

[comptiger5000]

Keep in mind, he's not using this for city driving. On the highway, auto with TCC locked vs manual doesn't make much difference, it's the overall gearing that counts.

As far as lugging it down to 1000 rpm, that's too low to have enough power to do much with in stock form. Plus, it may actually put him below the good part of the BSFC curve. To even think of playing down there, engine mods to increase low end torque are likely needed. In my Jeep, it starts dropping off pretty hard below about 1100 rpm, and my engine is a good bit bigger than his (5.9 liters).

I'd say he should shoot for somewhere in the 1300 - 1400 rpm range, 1500 was the absolute max. After a little research and math, with his stock AODE transmission, stock 215/70R15 or equivalent (26.8" tall) tires, and a 2.73 rear end gear, he will turn 1375 rpm at 60mph. That and aeromods could quite possibly get him very close to 40mpg.

[mystere485]

wow this is exhaustive trying to figure this out.
these are the numbers i got...who can convert this?

The car has 21lb injectors

120hp(rw est.) x 0.5(bsfc)/8(injectors) x 0.8(duty)=9.7656 lbs/hr
9.7656 x 10.5(cc conversion)= 102.5388 cc/min

190hp(Factory rating) x 0.5/8 x 0.8= 14.84375 lbs/hr
14.84375 x 10.5= 155.859375 cc/min

I was doing some research on intakes and found that the ford truck intakes have dual intake runners(long/short) that boost tourque numbers in the 1500-3000 rpm range. Would this bump in power hinder the mpg with the switch?

[comptiger5000]

The truck intakes likely are tuned for more low end torque, so if the long runners of the truck intake are longer than your current runners, the intake swap would likely help, or at a minimum, not hurt.

[mystere485]

http://image.sporttruck.com/f/240896...or+intakes.jpg

http://www.mcsmk8.com/92-P75/HR/92P75-14.JPG

wow, unless i put a hood bump on it theres no way it will fit. How would that affect air flow?

[Christ]

You'll also need to figure out how the dual runner setup is controlled, to take advantage of it fully.

A hood bump shouldn't hurt your aero at all, as long as it's nor square or obnoxious.

I don't think you can accurately see the difference in height with the photo; The smaller intake is missing it's throttle body.

[DonR]

Finding a good Low RPM cam may help the gearing endeavors.

Any parts that can reduce friction in the engine. Roller rocker arms, cam timing drives, etc.

I don't know if Long tube headers will help down that low in the RPM band. They may rob too much back pressure.

You may want to talk to a custom tuner who has a lot of Ford experience to solve some of these problems.

[dcb]

A common (and space saving trick) for shifting the torque peak to lower rpm is to advance the intake cam a few degrees (i.e. less than 10). Maybe advance the whole cam if you only have one, and watch the ignition timing.

[comptiger5000]

^ That'll do too. If you don't mind pulling the heads, thinner head gaskets will bump the compression up a little, which helps both low end torque and thermal efficiency.

The key with headers for a build like this is they must meet certain criteria: equal length primaries, clean merge, long primaries, primaries not too big. If the primaries are too big and/or too short, they won't build as much low end.

[mystere485]

Originally Posted by Christ

You'll also need to figure out how the dual runner setup is controlled, to take advantage of it fully.
I don't think you can accurately see the difference in height with the photo; The smaller intake is missing it's throttle body.

As far as i know the runners are electronically vacuum controlled, Ill see if i can get a better comparative picture tomorrow.

Originally Posted by dcb

A common (and space saving trick) for shifting the torque peak to lower rpm is to advance the intake cam a few degrees (i.e. less than 10). Maybe advance the whole cam if you only have one, and watch the ignition timing.

This could be possible, it is a single cam but there should be adjustable timing gear i can use from a mustang application.

Originally Posted by comptiger5000

^ That'll do too. If you don't mind pulling the heads, thinner head gaskets will bump the compression up a little, which helps both low end torque and thermal efficiency.

The key with headers for a build like this is they must meet certain criteria: equal length primaries, clean merge, long primaries, primaries not too big. If the primaries are too big and/or too short, they won't build as much low end.

One of the upgrades ford guys say is upgrading the older first gen modulars with the second gen pi heads. The second gen heads have a slightly smaller cc combustion chamber and the pistons where slightly larger cc. With the head swap and no other mods the compression rises from 9.7:1 to 10.3:1. How high of compression could i go before needing to upgrade from regular to premium octane?

this is from a ford performance website:
" Ford Motorsport makes a very nice set of headers for the 96 - 98 Mustang GT. They use a high tech coating to keep them from rusting and ensure long life. Their primary tubes are 1 5/8" and they offer a noticeable gain.

The most important thing to remember when choosing a high flow H-Pipe and catalytic converters is that the 2V engine is very sensitive and easily looses torque if the exhaust is too large. We recommend a 2 1/4" h-pipe, any larger and low end torque suffers significantly. And low end torque is what this engines needs improved the most. The Motorsport headers and a good h-pipe are worth approximately 25 hp."

I did some searching and no one states exactly what or if an appropriate lenght for headers is possible. Is there a math related equation some one knows of to calculate this?

[mekanic]

for the air bags look under the same generation Linclon Town Cars. the town car is based on the same chassis. they both have the 8.8 rear axles as well.
Also I have seen and I know ford made 2.47 ratio gear sets for the 8.8 rear axles.