89 civic wagovan 5spd (very slow build: power + ecomods & lots of pics!)
 

I'm picking up this little gem tomorrow for $600:D:thumbup:

1989 honda civic wagon! The story is that this was the "family car" for it's entire life. The car was bought new by the current owner's grandma, handed down to his mother, then to him. when another "hand me down" car landed in his lap from the family, the wagovan went back to mom's place, until tomorrow!!

I'll be cruising from 61081 to 62926. that's pretty darn far, but for $600, I think I can get her home for about $1000, and I'm OK with that.

This is basically a "teaser" post to hopefully get some ideas kicking around, since I haven't actually even seen the car first-hand. I figure I'll share the photos that had me sold on this car:D

so, in no particular order:
http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/...ps12fac33a.jpg
http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4f216d41.jpg
http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/...psdd0551d8.jpg
http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/...psa4229e3c.jpg
http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/...psafc35c8a.jpg
http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/...ps04b31b66.jpg
http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/...ps43663c69.jpg
http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/...pseeeb2832.jpg
http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/...psdae7d49d.jpg
http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/...psa05a55be.jpg
http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/...psf907c6ea.jpg
http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/...psd6168f96.jpg
http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4c98d468.jpg
http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/...ps48088ee8.jpg
http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/...psb69967a9.jpg
http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/...ps139fc65b.jpg

as you can see it's all there, and in pretty decent condition. it's fair to say I've got a lot of work ahead of me, but it sounds like fun!

I plan on working on it in about twenty different places at once, depending on my mood and time available.

definite plans include :

*a vx tranny from ecomodder turbovr41991 in Ohio (drove the minion up and met him) that will be powder-coated white sometime next week and then prepped for new bearings and seals (hopefully somebody knows if the '89 tranny has taller gears than the vx, and if it will bolt up to the "d-series" stuff, I assume it will)

*I've also got a d15z1 motor that I got from ecomodder slownugly in PA (also got a vxtranny from slownugly - I rebuilt and daily drive it - drove it to Ohio too), and a d16z6 motor from a non-modder. I plan to combine these two into a "mini-me" with low compression (yes, I want to join team turbocharged!!!). that motor will take a while, so for now, I'll see about getting the stock stuff running:D

*An mpguino

*driver's seat getting re-upholstered to match the rest of that beautiful interior

*new suspension all around

*all new wheel bearings, tie rod ends, ball joints, brakes (probably lines too), rims, tires, etc,etc



I'm going to try and get some sleep, but I feel like a little kid who can't sleep the night before "the big day" but I will try.

I'll post more pics and add notes tomorrow hopefully, but tomorrow is basically all road time. I do have another BIG ecomodder decal like I made for the minion, that's going to be the first ecomod to the car. before it hits the trailer:thumbup:

thanks ecomodders!
Victor

Sweet!!! In for this. Love Wagovans. Brown interior is the best!

Cream paint w/ a red pinstripe ?! :D

$600 is a heck of a good price!

Wow. Cream paint? Pinstripe? That sounds cool. I'll have to get the "old lady's" Ok, but wow. She was taking SI red (actually all she really wanted was a shiny red)

I used Chrysler's "Alpine White". Turned out great, I think. Sourced a thick 3M red pinstripe online, and it was GAME OVER for OG-goodness, ha!

She wants red, eh? We'll then, let me introduce you to one of my favorite Honda builders, Billboard. Super cool guy and amazing builder. He's built up a red wagon, just like yours. I think you'll find his build "of interest".

Billboard back in a wagon again - Honda-Tech

* Just bumped his thread cause he's awesome.

You tha man, OG! Thanks! I'm about to get my Uhaul and start this "mission from God" as the blues brothers would say:thumbup:

Member here "gasoline fumes" is doing awesome with one of those cars. I'm not sure what trans he is running but I think he did a "valve delete" going from 16 to 8 and got a big jump in MPG from it. At least that is what I think he did... Never researched his mods that thoroughly...

Manual wagon, love it!

http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/...ps36376b62.jpg

Uhaul ecomodders!

I love wagons, and adore hold Hondas.

You might have some trouble with the transmission. I assume the one that's in it is cable, and the VX replacement his hydro.

That is awesome the uhaul truck has that. And I see you have hit the top speed of your truck! I love the wagon. Awesome price too!

12.5 mpg at 80mph? :snail:

Yea he did, not sure how he did it, but he did.

http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/...pscfc5e220.jpghttp://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/...psff6f86aa.jpg

should be home by 1am tomorrow! Let the games begin!

12.9 but yeah, ugh.. and it's got a governor, 75mph max;)

If it drives, looks like all you needed was a set of ramps and load it in the back. :thumbup:

It should, but no battery and no winch on the trailer. Not enough oomph to try and push start it tonight. Had to save it to get her on the trailer!

You are getting great mpg!!! I got my best was about 7-9 mpg. Wonder if you hypermile or p&g what you get?

I rent the penske versions of this truck it's a 2012-2013 gmc 5.7V8 with a 16' box. Or a 12' box.

My best tank with that monster was 21.2MPG EOC P&G. Over 453 miles. yes automatic. And I haven't ever seen the vacuum gauge. They should write on it too put it in manual mode and upshift constant.
Not a bad truck.

But a better wagon.

Man, I miss my old Honda wagon!

Mine was an automatic, and the ugliest mud brown color imaginable, but I loved it! I paid 200 bucks for it and drove it for about a year, and to this day it's still one of my favorite cars! Unfortunately, I blew the head gasket, and at the time I had no tools or money to fix it, so I scrapped it:(

Good luck with the build!

Yeah, good luck with your build. I stopped by the honda dealer today to window shop, I couldnt believe my eyes.
2013 Honda Insight 18,250
2014 Ridgeline 35,500
2014 mini van 32.500
2014 Fit 19.500
2014 accord 31,500
2014 crosstour 33,500

Yeah. at that rate Im looking at a riced out si for sure thats built.

Welcome home! :D

http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/...psd1801ebf.jpg


BONUS! !!
http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/...ps145061ea.jpg

free with purchase!:thumbup::cool:


today's plans include a battery, oil change and plugs. We'll see if she wants to kick over soon!

Nice garage. I hope to have one like that in 2 years if my contract doesnt run out and I end up unemployed again. Glad you made it.

'88-'91 Civic wagons - one dang sexy piece of automotive history. I'd trade my CX for my old '88 Wagon back any day, and the CX is in way better shape than the wagon ever was!

Thanks for all the support so far guys! Great news! SKID MARK IS ALIVE!!

Just got a battery in her, clutch in and turned the key, and nothing (I got all the good clicks and noises up until turning the key) so I hit the starter a little and tried again, no luck. Found the clutch interlock switch wasn't making from the pedal. The little rubber nipple broke off! I bypassed the switch with a small cotter pin in the molex plug. tried again and she cranked over happily:D. She started up right away:-)

time for an oil change and then on to the brakes to see what's going on in there. ..

Brakes bled, got enough front brakes for a test drive! http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/...ps79029513.jpg

Gas was empty, $15 bought me 5.086 gallons. I'm just under half tank!

Did get cel, though. Will play more tomorrow and report back!

Thanks,
Victor.

CRX HF trans. 1800 RPM at 60 MPH. All valves are still in place, it's the rocker arms that I deleted using HF parts. A complete VX/CX/HF engine would be the better way.

Need a right side mirror delete? I have an extra. :)

Cool project! (Anything that involves a U-Haul and a road trip at the beginning is a cool project.)

Subscribed.

EDIT: once you get into your first big drivetrain mod, remind me to put this on the front page.

I've got to tell you, this motor will only be in the car for about a year, unless the car and new motor are ready sooner;) my quesion to you would be about the "cable" style clutch on the tranny - is there a conversion kit for the 95-99 trannies? I've never seen this style until really looking at it today. it would be cool to keep the cable style, since the spot under the hood for the clutch master cylinder would go is pretty small - I mean I converted the minion from auto to manual and that looked tight, but this one??:confused: I'll look at it more, it may only involve turning the cable and relocating the mount on it to work with the newer style tranny.

Ive got a VX tranny in pieces that's been waiting for this car:D powdercoat this week, If the stars line up. (I'd better get bearings and seals on the way) This tranny is going to get a special "sumpn sumpn" because the motor I haven't built yet for this car will be a little crazy, and my goals right now involve having cake and eating it too, LOTS OF IT!!

My mechanical yoda and I have been kicking around ideas like 350 horse/35mpg(without hypermiling). The "sumpn" is in the pinion and adresses concerns that were brought up with my minion's lsd and it's "self-machining" capabilties:eek:

I think we've settled on a design - the "STERLING LOCKER" which is where we weld the gears (that hold the drive-shafts) in the spider case to the actual final drive housing,and weld the spider gears to each other and to everything and basically fill the whole free area with weld! I'm no welder, but he says they have stuff at his work that they can get it done right. this will be a true, tire chirping turns, twin wheel wonder, locked diff!

The locked differential explained, the final motor will be turboed, but set up to hold boost off until about 3000 - 4000 rpm's, so that I can drive it, and DRIVE IT!!!!!!!


back to the now... I'm going to open up the rear brakes tomorrow and see where my brake problems lie out back, since I got a lot of air out of the fonts earlier today. I supect a leak in the gasket between where the master brake cylinder and brake vaccum booster come together (hope it's that easy!)

With any luck, I'llat least have the brakes sorted out by tomorrow. I was expecting a lot of little problems before I knew this was the one, but I NEVER expected to DRIVE her to the gas station today, or even this week! Clutch felt great, synchros felt fine (power shifted thru all gears, no pop outs or weird rattles), motor sounded ok after the oil change, radiator took about a half gallon of coolant (heat works fine), more notes as they come!

moving right along (slowly:turtle:)
Victor

WOW! I'd be honored! absolutely!!:D the tranny for this one came from turbovr41991, and the z1 came from slownugly. I'm a bit of a road trip "junkie" since becoming an ecomodder!

An amazing pick up! Tan interiors rock man. So OG...

Unless I'm missing something, I don't see this wagon as really needing a full paint job. The color is perfect as is, if you want to do the combo we were discussing yesterday. Other than a few small spots on the drivers side and one nickel sized rust spot on the hatch, it looks like the paint can be saved with some elbow grease/buffing. Am I wrong?

I'd save a few hundred bucks, take care of the surface rust then touch up/spot paint the few ugly parts.

For the bumpers, maybe paint them with paint mixed in a can?

Just a thought. That interior though!!!! Yes!!!

There are a LOT of little spots all the way around it, but I don't think she really needs paint, at least not anytime soon :-) I've got to tear into the brakes yet today, not too sure about my suspected leak. hopefully it won't fight me too bad.

Thanks for the help "OG Wagon" I checked your thread on HT! Skills like yours demand respect, I'm glad they are playing nice over there!

Thanks,
Victor

^^^ This guy!

More progress on skidmark! Bled the rear brakes, got a squishy half brake pedal! Also got a little cleaning started under the hood. Before:http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/...ps48088ee8.jpg

after:http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/...psa0057c54.jpghttp://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0609029b.jpg


should be a little easier to see what's going on in there, anyway!
Next I'm going to see about a master brake cylinder and then it's on to figure out the nasty noise coming from my front driver's wheel. Sounds like a wheel bearing, time and tools will tell. Tomorrow if I get home early enough:thumbup:
Enjoy!
Victor

Brake testing
 

To isolate brake circuits and properly diagnose spongy pedal.

Clamp off each brake hose (the flexible ones). Either use one or more vise grips, carefully adjusted so they do not damage the hose. I prefer to do all 4 at the same time, but it just takes more time if you can only do one at a time.

This eliminates that (or those) calipers-wheel cylinders from the system.

If you do all 4 simultaneously and you know the system is properly bled. The brake pedal should be as hard as a rock with virtually no travel, since the fluid can not move through the lines.

1. Pedal still spongy, bad master cylinder.

2. Pedal hard as a rock, master is good.

Once you have determined the master is good, then unclamp each wheel individually and when you get the spongy pedal you can be fairly certain that caliper or wheel cylinder is your problem.

Rear drum brakes on old cars tend to loose their "self adjusting" capability. Sometimes you can get it to work by just using the emergency brake, especially if it does not stop the car with 6-8 clicks of the emergency brake.

Sometimes you have to pull the drums and manually free up the adjusters. Not a bad idea to pull them anyway to check for shoe condition and hydraulic leaks.

Front calipers are notorious for frozen sliding pins on the single piston type calipers. Get them loose and clean lube the pins and the orfices they slide in.

Not a bad idea to check the pads, which in in severe cases can have much more wear on one pad if the pins were sticking-frozen. Also look for uneven wear on the pads friction material due to sticking pins.

If you really want to get adventurous, extend the pistons in the caliper and then clean the exposed surface of the piston,with scotch brite and some brake fluid, wipe them down and compress them back.

If you find that after all that work the brakes don't want to release completely, suspect the rubber hoses are collapsed internally and acting as a "check valve", stopping the fluid from returning from the caliper-cylinder to the master. Seen them come in the shop smoking because of collapsed hoses.

I have found the best way to bleed brakes is to use a glass jar and a piece of hose that you connect to the bleeder, with the other end in the jar. Top off the master reservoir and pump it with the bleeder open. This provides much greater movement of the fluid and will even get air bubbles out that will not be removed by conventional bleeding. The hose must stay under the fluid level in the jar at all times for this to work, good use for old crappy fluid.

Make sure the emergency brake cables are not deteriorated to the point where water can get inside and freeze, locking up the rear brakes if it gets cold enough.

regards
mech

wow. thanks, mech! I'll have to buy or borrow a couple more pairs of vice grips. I've never taken the vice grip trick much farther than changing calipers or turning nasty compression fittings on brakes!

good tip on the slide pins, since I'll be in there anyway I'll make sure to give them a good cleaning and greasing!



More things I found with skidmark - took her to taco bell with the family for dinner (big spenders):D and was bothered by the fact that the driver's door wouldn't bring the dome light on (it would come on if I fiddled with it, but not if the door opened):confused: I figured it wouldn't be too hard to figure out, but wanted to share anyway.

the problem : the contacts inside the switch were corroded and interrupting the current flow when the switch was made.
the solution: my blast cabinet!

before (this wasn't the driver door switch, but the contact point is at the base of the male spade connector, and it touches the little "v" to the right of it):
http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0e31971e.jpg

after:
http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/...psbd4c5a36.jpg

knocked the rust off the contacts and now all the doors can make the dome light come on! yay!

not sure what years this applies to, but the front of the swithes look like this:
http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/...psb92a5de8.jpg

and there's only one screw per switch, the other side hooks into the body thru the opening. here's the screw:
http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7aad1667.jpg

also plugged the speedo cable back into the tranny (not connected before I got her) hopefully I'll know how fast I'm going on the skidmark's next outing!

thanks,
Victor

What'd you use to clean the engine bay? Elbow grease?

dollar tree sells wheel and tire cleaner in their automotive section, and shiny tire $h!t in spray bottles, and oven cleaner, and baby bottle cleaning brushes!

I usually start with the oven cleaner and walk away for a smoke break to let it work before hitting it with the garden hose, then I hit everything with the tire and wheel cleaner! the baby brush makes it pretty easy work. hit it with the hose and blow off with the air gun. repeat as necessary, and finish with shiny tire $h!t. I like to hit the tire shine with the air gun too, so it donesn't leave spots

total cost: $5 plus tax and elbow grease (free - I know a guy!)


thanks!
Victor.

Mech, those are great tips. I'll keep those filed away for the future.

I just scrape the rust off the contact area with a screwdriver. I hate those switches!