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Old 04-20-2009, 01:01 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I'd say the point is better for you... should increase the rate of flow at the stagnation point (I think that's the correct term, the area where the initial flow is actually spoiled into more than one direction).

You're right, the lights look better being mostly flush mounted. I'm still sticking with adding lexan or plexi covers to them once you can get them fully sealed up, though. That will show even more improvement on your aero.

FYI - that big gaping hole between your headlights isn't doing much, the lower grille is where the majority of your radiator's cooling flow comes from.

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Old 04-20-2009, 01:35 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Yeah I know.. All 6 holes are 2x9. The upper grilles were measured in the center. I put some duct tape behind the grilles to check temps before I cover them flush. Knowing the car is a bottom breather I think the upper grilles lets heat out in traffic. As for the lower 4 openings, the outer two openings only give about 50% direct flow to the radiator. They are being shut this week. As you can see in the photo below. Then depending on temps the other two will go away shortly thereafter.



These photos shows the underside of the nose. The bumper cover is an inch lower than the radiator support. The under tray (missing) goes from the rad support to the front crossmember. If I put a chin spoiler on the rad support that is a little lower than the one the factory put there (mine is missing but you can see an original in the first photo of this thread) I think I will have plenty of flow for engine cooling.



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Old 04-23-2009, 09:31 PM   #13 (permalink)
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A good first step would be getting the factory undertray. GM did their homework with that part. It cuts down on drag via shunting air underneath the car instead of at the engine block. Mine was off for the past few weeks, and man have my glides on the highway gone poorly! The car also seems to wander more with it missing.

I'm planning on adding some Coroplast on either side of the factory part to block off the front wheel wells. The factory chin spoiler on my car isn't deep enough to block air coming just underneath it from hitting the front suspension components, and ultimately the back of the wheel well.
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Old 04-25-2009, 04:10 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Sorry for the delay in updates. My radiator fans stopped working without the A/c being on. I sort of feel the need to fix that before I start closing up the holes in the nose LOL
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Old 04-25-2009, 05:10 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Probably a broken relay.
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Old 04-25-2009, 05:13 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Thats what the guys on the Bonneville forum say but i switched it with another one from the car that had the same part numbers and I still get nothing. I even changed the sender for the computer.. No change. I am looking at grounds and the resistors now.
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Old 05-06-2009, 08:15 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Ok long break but I am back. Just a tiny update.. I removed the aftermarket rain guards over my side windows. I know it's not a big areo boost but It was killing me to look at them considering how integreated the glass and mouldings are on these cars.

Hey 99LeCouch by any chance do you have a pic of the front belly pan on your car? I would imagine it would be the same as the one I am missing. I want to see what GM had in mind before I start cutting my Aluminum
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Old 05-06-2009, 08:33 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I do. Somewhere...
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Old 05-06-2009, 08:40 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Gee thanks you're a big help LOL <Kidding> If you cant find it just let me know if there are any vent slots cut into it and about how wide the tray is from side to side.

Thank you
Dean
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Old 06-18-2009, 11:07 PM   #20 (permalink)
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It's taken a while but here's the pic of the OEM thinger. It's pretty wide, about 3.5 feet. It runs the full width of the subframe in front. There aren't any vents of note in it, just the rips it has from falling off because I secured it incorrectly once.


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