Kinda curious if anyone has used the 10mm Coroplast compared to the 4mm Coroplast. It seems like it might be stiff enough to work with without building a complete support structure to keep it from drooping down like the 4mm Coroplast would. Here's what I did with some 10mm Coroplast...
The 4mm Coroplast that I was using on my engine bay belly pan had seen it's days with impacts and engine/road heat. At least the frame work I built was holding up.
A year ago, I found a 4'x4' 10mm Coroplast road sign that was floating in the bay...so I rescued it.
I've cut it down to replace my aging engine bay belly pan...aluminum flashing on top to reflect the engine heat away with only my original support in the back. The engine bay belly pan rear support has holes in it so it can slide onto two ¼" threaded rods embedded into my first crossbeam which keeps the back end from falling down. Brackets up front keep the belly pan securely in place.
Installed...only 3 self tapping pan-head lathe screws to remove in order to drop the engine bay belly pan down. The brackets are made from flattening out some Simpson Strong-tie A21 brackets. They cost about 50 cents each.
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Dark Aero-The world's first aerodynamic single wheel boat tail!
Dunno how much better it would help, but what about tacking some pieces under the control arms and hinging them (with zip ties or something) to the existing engine pan?
Dunno how much better it would help, but what about tacking some pieces under the control arms and hinging them (with zip ties or something) to the existing engine pan?
One of my early engine belly pan versions (2 years ago) had some wings to it to cover the control arms but they ended up just gitting in the way when it came to pulling the engine bay belly pan.
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Dark Aero-The world's first aerodynamic single wheel boat tail!
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Anyone using 10mm Coroplast?
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