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Old 04-16-2009, 04:24 PM   #31 (permalink)
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If on the outside chance I got it for ~$100, I was going to take it as a sign that it belonged on my 250, yes

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Old 04-16-2009, 04:26 PM   #32 (permalink)
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haha... 200lb motor on a 350lb bike. You could do a burnout till your rim wore down.
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Old 04-16-2009, 08:49 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Old 04-16-2009, 09:57 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcb View Post
Well this one is like $60 shipped
PRX - IGBT CM600HA-24H Power Module 1200V 600A - eBay (item 290049066472 end time Apr-27-09 14:17:07 PDT)

I guess the "dual" response would be, how much efficiency gain are we talking about, and is it only at full throttle, vs cost/complications, ya know. Is it good enough to get started with, kinda sounds like it will handle 48 volts 300+ amps no problem. Throw some pwm at it and monitor the current I recon.

Also the synch gains are probably frequency dependent.
I used to have 4 of those. Instead of making a controller, I hawked them on Ebay! They are the older ones, that can't really switch much above 8KHz. Lee Hart said that they need to be derated to 1/3 (continuous??? I forgot) of their current rating. The Tesla guy used some IGBTs in his homemade controller for his electric Porsche.

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Old 04-17-2009, 06:51 AM   #35 (permalink)
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That's purdy

So lower frequency = less diode losses, but the noises your motor makes will be in the audible spectrum? And at some point bits might get "saturated"?
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Old 04-17-2009, 08:07 AM   #36 (permalink)
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I don't think that lower freq = less diode loss. Diode loss is relative to the current*offtime. You get less SWITCHING loss from lower frequency.

If you want to be really cool you could make your controller match the frequency of an ICE as it goes through the revs

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