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Old 10-17-2013, 10:03 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I've wondered this as well with the camper shells when reading posts about making them from scratch thinking it would be much easier to start with a shell and cut it down.

Fiberglass is not very hard to work with. Get good epoxy and measuring cups. I like West Systems because they have pumps that connect to epoxy and hardener cans and dispense the amount needed from each (4 to 1 I think). When laying down new glass mat, put down layer of epoxy first and then lay the mat from 1 end to the other to avoid bubbles (like you would with an ecomodder sticker ) Custom sub enclosures are usually done using pantyhose stretched around the framing I think. Also make sure to stock up on cheap brushes since you'll ruin many of them.

MAKE SURE TO WEAR A DUST MASK WHEN CUTTING THE FIBERGLASS!!!! A respirator with the filters would be better than just a mask, but at least the mask is some protection.

Would also be smart to wear something with sleeves as fiberglass dust is very annoyingly itchy and doesn't always come off in the shower. Also remember the dust all over your clothes when you are done as you and your family are at highest risk of breathing it in while inside the house...and you are most when removing your clothes...non-pullover shirt would be best...

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Old 10-27-2013, 05:34 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Made my first rough cut to the topper. Still brainstorming on top material.
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Old 10-28-2013, 05:34 PM   #13 (permalink)
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What material is it made out of? If it's fiberglass and you cut and twist it and 'glass it back together there will be residual stresses built up. If it's ABS?
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Old 10-28-2013, 07:27 PM   #14 (permalink)
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It is fiberglass and if I decide to glass it I will do it with it on the truck so no twisting will take place. I had already thought about that.
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Old 10-29-2013, 01:49 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Have you? The twist is not in the overall shape, but in resolving the contours. The cap as manufactured has tumblehome. When you pie-cut through the tumblehome, the inclined angle at the front stays the same, while the angle at the rear corner increases.

The loose piece is too flat and rectangular for the contour you need. If you put the bottom half on your truck and then add a curved tube across the back, as a header for a crescent-shaped lift gate; then you just need to fill in a smooth contour. You could use the flat piece if you put curved ribs inside to hold its shape.
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Old 02-28-2014, 05:10 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Updates? I like this idea.
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Old 02-28-2014, 06:38 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Updates! I fear the project ended before completion

I'd really like to see it complete, although working with wood and polycarbonate might be cheaper depending on quality. BUT, it depends on how one wants it to look. I am quite confident I could make a decent aerocap out of wood and PC!

ROI wise, not saying looks...we all know how that goes for me...lol
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Old 02-28-2014, 06:51 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UltArc View Post
Updates! I fear the project ended before completion

I'd really like to see it complete, although working with wood and polycarbonate might be cheaper depending on quality. BUT, it depends on how one wants it to look. I am quite confident I could make a decent aerocap out of wood and PC!

ROI wise, not saying looks...we all know how that goes for me...lol
The mustang's looks make up for it
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Old 03-03-2014, 11:42 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Found some 4' x 8' clear coroplast sheets to finish the topper with. 4' x 8' sheet is a perfect fit in the hole that I cut out of the topper. I have not attached the sheet yet, but when the weather clears up I am on it. So far I have spent $0. Traded for the topper and found 4 coroplast sheets in a dumpster. I will probably spend a little on plastic angle and runners to stiffen the sheet up. will post pics, but I doubt it will be pretty.
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Old 03-04-2014, 12:29 PM   #20 (permalink)
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never know what you will find when you go diving. good score.

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