Can I buy some spray on fiberglass?

[sl2eggplant]

Like most folks, I am horrible at working with the "goo" type fillers (bondo, fiberglass, epoxy, etc) and things just seem to get really messy.

Is there something that I can buy to spray on or coat that is not too messy. I like 3Wheeler's Body "smoothing" pan

http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...els-10638.html

For simplicity and getting 80-90% of the gains, I would want to create something simple (and cheap) with the foam board don't feel comfortable about it holding up to the heat from the engine and exhaust. Hopefully a spray on "something" can protect and strengthen the foam, if one does exist.

[sjr]

Chemicals are Messy, Ive used powder such as Fumed Silica , Gypson , ATH or even sawdust, to thicken resin to make a paste , Fiberglass is a combination of 3 parts : Resin, Catlyst (MEKP) and fibers, I dont know of any sparay on that has those 3 ellements

[Bicycle Bob]

There are industrial sprayers that spew proportioned fiberglass ingredients, but it does not do much to protect insulation from heat. Only high-temp insulation can protect low-temp insulation. Airflow and reflective surfaces help, too.

To learn to use mud, you can practise on walls or pottery. The best additive for increasing workability is fumed silica, or cab-o-sil. It makes the mix thixotropic, like catsup, so it stays where you put it. Microballoons make it easy to sand, fibers make it stronger. I usually use all 3 in some proportion. Don't try to get it perfect right away. Start by filling low spots, with the mistakes seldom above the finished surface. They are easy to knock off while half-cured, and provide a reference for further trowel work. You can also cover an area of filler with clear plastic, and work it that way, peeling the plastic later.

[3-Wheeler]

Originally Posted by sl2eggplant

....with the foam board don't feel comfortable about it holding up to the heat from the engine and exhaust....

Take a close look at the pictures in the post. Notice how much of a gap there is between the exhaust system and foam.

I have not had any heat related issues with these spacings.

If the heat rejection of your muffler system is anything like the Insight, you should be fine with these spacings.

Please note that the foam gets soft at 150°F and starts to distort at 250°F. None of the panels have this characteristic after driving since last fall into 95°F temps this summer.

Jim.

[dremd]

Find somebody with a chopper gun around you.
Epic.

[sl2eggplant]

Thanks for the responses. I think I will be using wood (cheaper) or aluminum flashing for my body pan.

[RobertSmalls]

Coroplast is popular around here. I've left it sitting against my radiator and oil pan, with no deformation all winter. You can buy it at sign shops, and it's almost as easy to work with as cardboard.

One thing I especially like about coroplast is even if it falls off, it's not going to hurt your car or anybody else's.

[sl2eggplant]

I just picked up a 4x4 sheet of coroplast to make my hub caps. I can pick up a 4x8 for $20 and would need 2 sheets to complete the body pan. I'm afraid of heat and deep snow (5+ inches) here in Detroit, MI.

I'm trying to hold back right now and not drop $50 on a hasty project when I could have spent a similar amount to get a much better end product.

What I really want is a really tough and sturdy body pan. I like wood b/c its easier for me to work with but I like aluminum b/c its more weather resistant but not as sturdy.

[brucey]

I've had coroplast under body panels on for 15k miles now.. I've high centered the car on a stump, I've driven 5000 miles in a week, I've driven through snow nearly up to the headlights. It's still hanging on there. A few dents and marks on it, but still flat.

[sl2eggplant]

Brucey thanks for the input. Looks like I will be using the coroplast and maybe a foil pan for a heat shield for extra protection. This will certainly make the setup much lighter.