07-13-2021, 09:02 AM
|
#1 (permalink)
|
High Altitude Hybrid
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Gunnison, CO
Posts: 2,075
Thanks: 1,128
Thanked 584 Times in 463 Posts
|
Climate control mods (that might be terrible).
So I was thinking of a few things. 1. It's more efficient to heat/cool your body directly. 2. Engines are less efficient when cold but heaters take away heat from the engine. And 3. If I were to limit when my car can heat the cabin, why not limit the A/C while I'm at it?
So here's the specifics:
Idea #1:
Hook up a heat exchanger (air to water) right after the heater core and A/C evaporator. Run that to small plastic lines in the seat(s) that I'd have to take apart and put back together. Hook up a pump that turns on anytime the heating/airconditioning fan is on.
How it works:
The heater or A/C will be heating or cooling the air it's blowing into the cabin. Part of that heat or coolness will be assorbed into the heat exchanger and pumped into the seat(s) which would more effectively heat or cool the driver's (and passengers') body(s) directly. This would make it so that people would tend to use less heat and cooling.
Potential problem:
If you need to defrost the windshield and alrady feel pretty warm well now you're forced to sit in a hot seat. Of course simply installing a switch would solve the problem.
Idea #2:
Add a heater control valve that does not open up until the engine reaches a certain temperature. It can be made so that it also closes if it falls back under that temperature.
How it works:
In order to warm up the engine more quickly this would force the driver to not use the heater until the engine is warmed up. This would also help hybrids by keeping the engine temperature above the threshold that causes them to start the engine again to keep it warm.
Problems:
Well, no heat of course, at least at first, especially if you don't drive very fast. It might make you want to idle your car to get it warmed up before driving instead of getting in and going. (Unless you add a forced start/stop system that keeps the engine off if you're not going anywhere).
Idea #3:
Add sensors that limit (turn off) the A/C compressor when you aren't driving efficiently for A/C use.
How it works:
For an example, in a hybrid the engine will start and begin charging the HV battery if you use the A/C a lot while stopped. By adding a way that it automatically shuts off the A/C when the HV battery reaches a certain point then it won't go so low that the engine is having to start again and again.
In a conventional vehicle you could set other parameters. For an example, that the A/C only turns on after a certain speed.
Problems:
Well obviously you'd fry yourself from the heat anytime you're stuck in traffic.
__________________
|
|
|
The Following User Says Thank You to Isaac Zachary For This Useful Post:
|
|
Today
|
|
|
Other popular topics in this forum...
|
|
|
07-13-2021, 08:23 PM
|
#2 (permalink)
|
Corporate imperialist
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: NewMexico (USA)
Posts: 11,266
Thanks: 273
Thanked 3,569 Times in 2,833 Posts
|
I have tried all the dumb heating tricks on my leaf.
The problem with saving heat in a car is the windows fog or frost up. When it's frosty or icy you kind of need heat right away. I drove the leaf for a year with seriously restricted heat and it sucked.
Do what I did, cheat. My leaf has a diesel fired parking heater.
With our hybrid in new mexico summer heat the car runs the electric A/C with the little 2kwh battery. The engine fires up for about 1 minute then stays off for about 7 minutes. It's crazy efficient compared to idling a gas burner just to spin an A/C compressor and power some fans.
If you wanted a cooled seat just get a vented seat cover for $60.
__________________
1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
|
|
|
The Following User Says Thank You to oil pan 4 For This Useful Post:
|
|
07-13-2021, 08:56 PM
|
#3 (permalink)
|
Corporate imperialist
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: NewMexico (USA)
Posts: 11,266
Thanks: 273
Thanked 3,569 Times in 2,833 Posts
|
__________________
1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
|
|
|
The Following User Says Thank You to oil pan 4 For This Useful Post:
|
|
07-13-2021, 09:24 PM
|
#4 (permalink)
|
Master EcoModder
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: northwest of normal
Posts: 28,557
Thanks: 8,092
Thanked 8,883 Times in 7,330 Posts
|
hege Permalink #40
Quote:
Old VW's used to have them on the outside, but I guess you could find some space to mount them somewhere away from the air stream.
|
On the only window that isn't open.
__________________
.
.Without freedom of speech we wouldn't know who all the idiots are. -- anonymous poster
____________________
.
.Three conspiracy theorists walk into a bar --You can't say that is a coincidence.
|
|
|
The Following User Says Thank You to freebeard For This Useful Post:
|
|
07-13-2021, 09:49 PM
|
#5 (permalink)
|
It's all about Diesel
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Porto Alegre, Rio Grande do Sul, Brazil
Posts: 12,891
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1,685 Times in 1,503 Posts
|
Is it out of question to try ideas 1 and 2 simultaneously? But anyway, maybe resorting to a fuel-powered auxiliary heater (Webasto makes some capable to operate with both gasoline and Diesel) is the best approach if you want instant heat while still giving the engine some time to get up to operating temperature.
|
|
|
The Following User Says Thank You to cRiPpLe_rOoStEr For This Useful Post:
|
|
|