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Old 12-08-2011, 09:16 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Shell Rotella Oil?

Just wanted a few more opinions here. This is related to the Bike slipping on hills post.

One person mentioned using rotella would help erase the synthectic oil slippage.

Was that meant as a one time "CLEANSING", or continual use?

I'm more than happy to pay for Castrol non syn oil.

Science wise, is there much difference between official motorcycle oil, and normal car oil?

I may be starting a war here, but would like your thoughts.

Thanks!

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Old 12-08-2011, 09:22 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I do not like to put diesel oil in my gasoline motorcycles. but do as you wish.

If you have clutch slippage it is from 1 of the following.
1. Using a automobile oil in a motorcycle (energy conserving on the label)
2. or either the clutch disks/springs need replacing.
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Old 12-08-2011, 09:55 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Used Rotella for about 22,000 miles on a FZ1, 34,000 on a zg1000 + less miles on several other bikes, but I don't think a synthetic will hurt a healthy clutch either.

I'm voting #2.
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Old 12-08-2011, 10:10 PM   #4 (permalink)
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The proper type of synthetic oil will not make the clutch slip.

I use Rotella T6 synthetic regularly in numerous cycles I own.

I don't think Rotella (regular or synthetic) is going to help a slipping clutch though. I agree with FPO about the possible causes, but will add to the list - improper adjustment.

The differences between auto, diesel, and cycle oil are numerous. Auto oils in grades 30 and below have Friction Modifiers that can build-up on clutch plates and cause slipping. Grades 40 and above do not have modifiers, but they lack some of the additives we want. Fairly recently, levels of ZDDP (Zinc and Phosphorus) in auto oils have been reduced to prolong the life of the catalyst. These lower levels can cause galling of cams and lifters on non-roller cam engines. Basically, you can use 10W-40 auto oil in you cycle, but it's not a great idea. Auto oils marked "Racing" or "not for street use" generally have better levels of ZDDP.

Diesel oils have better (safe) levels of ZDDP, and generally are considered "heavy duty" compared to auto oils. One drawback is a heavy detergent package, but I've not confirmed any problems because of it. I've run Rotella T6 synthetic for years and feel it's a good choice for an economical synthetic alternative to a cycle specific oil.

Cycle oils are your best choice, especially top-quality Group IV Ester-based synthetics as offered by Motul, Repsol, etc. They have the levels of ZDDP that you want and the best, most advanced, type of base stock.

I'm currently running Castrol synthetic 10W-40 4T Racing in my SV650, which is very similar to Mobil1 4T. Both are more than adequate for all but the most extreme conditions like racing, in which case I'd run a Motul Double Ester synthetic.


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Old 12-28-2011, 06:35 AM   #5 (permalink)
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One big question on the car vs bike oil:

Do you have a wet or a dry clutch ??

If it is wet,as JKV357 stated, you will have buildup problems.
If it is a dry clutch pack, use any good oil.

It is not the synthetic vs dino that causes the issues, its the additives.
Some bikes are more suseptable than others. why? dunno.
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Old 01-08-2012, 05:17 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roosterk0031 View Post
Used Rotella for about 22,000 miles on a FZ1, 34,000 on a zg1000 + less miles on several other bikes, but I don't think a synthetic will hurt a healthy clutch either.

I'm voting #2.
A diesel hdeo or any JASO spec'd motorcycle oil will have a very very small amount of friction modifiers and will not harm a wet clutch. To the poster above who mentioned not using a diesel oil in a gas bike should perhaps read the back of the diesel oil container. Almost every diesel oil I have seen meets the JASO spec for wet clutches. Spend more money of you want on badged motorcycle oil but a fool and his money are soon parted.
Synthetic oil has nothing to do with clutch slip. Friction modifiers do. Oils marked Xw-40 will have very limited amounts of fm's. They tend to rely on zddp as an anti wear agent. Oils marked Xw-30 and thinner will almost always use moly as a fm and that stuff MAY cause slippage.
Rotella t-6 has no moly it it. It's a 5w-40 and has shown amazing wear numbers in various different bikes in used oil analysis at bob is the oil guy and is likely one of the best oils you can put into a shared sump bike. And its very cost effective.
For you guys who think you need to pay those high prices for motorcycle oil you really don't. Most heavy duty engine oils and diesel oils meet the same specs the bike specific oils do. So don't feel like you have to spend the big bucks.
Now for viscosity. If your bike states it needs a 10w-40 then a 5w-40 will work fine. The first number followed by the w means that how the oil behaves in winter. Hence the w,it stands for winter. The second number represents the oils viscosity at 100 degrees celcius. Operating temp. So as kind as the oil has the second number 40 you can use it with confidence in your bike.
And honestly guys don't believe all the hype about oil. Synthetic lasts longer and resists high heat better than conventional but any conventional will work fine as long as its changed regular.
If you have a Harley you can use oils with friction modifiers because the engine oil is separate from the clutch and tranny. In spring and fall I use a 5w-50 in my Harley and summer is 20w-50.
My Honda 750 gets 0w-40 for spring and fall and then rotella t-6 for summer.
Good rule of thumb for bikes is as soon as the oil is black change it. Oil is cheap.
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Old 01-10-2012, 06:42 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Back in 1978 I noticed the oil in my 1978 Harley-Davidson Superglide was foaming in the oil tank. I knew that heat sometimes causes foaming and that foaming oil does not lubricate. I was using Castrol at the time so I decided to experiment.

The Harley brand oil never foamed but was impossible to find on a Sunday afternoon far from an HD dealer so I thought about the oils we used in diesel trucks. Gasoline burns around 700 degrees F. gibe or take a little. But seeing the pyrometer (Oil Temp guage) on those big turbocharged diesels would sometimes exceed 1900 degrees F., I knew diesel oil had to be different because I had never seen foam in a diesel.

So I switched my Hog to Rotella T 20W-40 and rode it for 10 more years without ever seeing the oil foam again.

I've run Rotella T in every motorcycle I've owned since and have never had an internal engine failure.

As for the detergents, that's what cleans the sludge out of your engine.

That said, as was pointed out by jkv357, above, the ZDDP or lack thereof, is the biggest concern. Any oil with high levels of ZDDP and of the correct grade should be fine.

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